Here’s Andy’s basic tips on how to keep your shirt tucked in. For more blogs please check out Andy’s Blog at www.askandyaboutclothes.com
[Note: Article is a transcription of the video]
Hello and welcome to the Ask Andy About Clothes Youtube channel.
My name is Carl Murawski.
I am from a Youtube Channel called New England Style Consulting and I would like to talk to you today about the most common problems plaguing anybody who likes to dress well and that is how do you keep your shirt tucked in.
It’s a problem that’s been plaguing me forever.
How do you keep looking as good as you do when you get yourself ready in the mirror all day long — it’s really difficult, especially if you’re active all day — reaching up & stretching or even getting out of your car, tying your shoe, sitting down at your desk.
It’s tough to keep your shirt tucked in and looking fresh all day long and from my research and experimentation it seems like every method falls under one of three categories.
The first one you have is layering.
There are different ways to layer your clothes to hopefully keep everything where it should be.
And this includes tucking techniques.
The military tuck is more or less where you would take the side of your shirt, and where it meets your pants — you will fold it in half, and tuck it underneath your waistband and hopefully keep things tucked in that way.
However, that only works as long as you’re not moving very much because as soon as you reach up to grab something, your shirt will come untucked and your military tuck is kinda out.
So, that doesn’t really work because it needs to be readjusted throughout the day.
The other thing you can do is tuck your shirt into your underwear, then your dress shirt on the outside, and then your pants.
So, you have kind of a layer sandwich going on.
That does work to a point and will certainly keep things tucked in a bit more than just tucking normally, but still this technique doesn’t quite cut the mustard.
The second category is friction.
So, you’ll find all kinds of contraptions across the net that promise to help keep your shirt tucked in.
Usually what they’re going to use is some sort of rubberized compound.
Sometimes you’ll find it on the inside of a waistband of a pair of pants.
Sometimes you’ll find it on the inside or outside of the waistband of a pair of underwear.
I’ve even seen little tabs that go over your belt and supposed to stick inside your waistband which are supposed to keep your shirt tucked and from coming up.
Now, one of the problems with these is the same as if you were going to tuck in your shirt normally which is they don’t really hold up stretching.
So, if you’re going to stretch and extend this piece of cloth out of your pants, it’s going to go and it’s going to kind of just billow out when your done and there’s just no way to get around that.
They may keep things in place as long as you’re not moving much, but who doesn’t move a lot throughout the day.
If you don’t, then you probably have bigger problems than keeping your shirt tucked in.
Now the third category is tension.
Tension is my favorite because anytime you’re using something that creates tension, it will help return something to its starting point.
So, if you have an anchor around your ankle or your sock, and it goes up to the shirt tail, if you’re moving it outside and creating more tension, as you move back it will return to its starting position.
This is my favorite. The only problem is that it does require an apparatus of some sort.
So, the one that I like to use is a normal shirt stay.
These here are from Sharp & Dapper, but you can get them anywhere. I know there are a bunch of different companies that make these.
These are the ones that I use. They’ve been absolutely wonderful.
One end goes to your sock. This long piece goes up the inside of your pants, and these three connect to your shirt tail.
The nice thing is that with just a little bit of gentle tension, when you stretch, this will bring them right back.
It’s just a nice way to keep yourself looking tucked in all day long.
I know that law enforcement and military have used these for a long time.
That’s how they maintain that very neat look.
So, if it’s good enough for the military, it’s certainly good enough for me.
These are absolutely wonderful. They do take a little bit of getting used to as far as putting them on and feeling that something is inside of the outside of your leg.
It’s a little bit strange at first. However, it’s a welcome trade-off to looking sharp and clean all day long.
So, those are the three categories of keeping your shirt tucked in.
I’d really be interested to see in the comments which ones you’ve tried.
If there’s something that I’ve missed — if there’s some kind of snake oil out there that helps you keep your shirt tucked in, and helps you look good all day long, I am all ears!
Thank you so much for watching the Ask Andy About Clothes Youtube Channel.
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10 Best Ways To Keep Your Shirt Tucked:
A Guide to looking as good as you can, all things considered!
Here’s Andy’s basic tips on how to look your best. For more blogs please check out Andy’s Blog at www.askandyaboutclothes.com
A Guide to looking as good as you can, all things considered!
Tips, secrets, and common sense to teach you how to put together a clothing ensemble that will make you look great.
Dangerfield! Look at yourself! A man who doesn’t know how to dress like a grown-up gets what he deserves, respect-wise.
Why? Because it turns out that clothes are more important than you think. In fact, researchers have come up with some scientific evidence to support the notion that what you wear really does make a difference in how you influence the world around you.
So now you know what you always suspected: The guy down the hall who didn’t know poop but got the vice-president’s slot anyway got it not because he was smart, but because he knew how to look smart.
That’s what this Guide is all about. In situations such as job interviews, court appearances, sales presentations and first dates it is important to make a not just good, but a great first impression for maximum credibility and authority.
Behavioral scientists tell us that the effect of a first impression is a strong one. The process of sizing you up is something that goes on almost subconsciously. Your evaluation by a stranger takes 30 seconds or less, and can be so strong that it could take as long as five years to erase.
Why not take advantage of the research on human nature and use that knowledge to enhance and control how you are seen by others? Since about 90 percent of you is covered by what you’re wearing, the clothing you choose makes a significant statement.
No rocket science here. Just a little physics and some introductory optics.
There are only a few basic things you need to know about getting dressed to look your best. The main thing is that you should look like you got dressed without having to consult a web guide; you want people to think that looking as good as you do was effortless and easy.
Follow the steps here, and soon you won’t need any steps to follow at all.
The basic basics.
Here’s the handful of things to keep in mind:
One bad choice can be a whole pattern of misbehavior.
Most of us know that wide horizontal stripes make the eye move left to right thus creating a broadening effect, and vertical stripes coax the eyes up and down helping to establish a thinner look.
Maybe that’s why the necktie, that glorious vertical stripe of fabric hangs (pun!) in there!
Large designs like plaids, focus on girth not length, whereas small patterns or no patterns underscore thinness.
A super models tip: Walk like a man. Stand like a supermodel
Next time you’re the subject of a photo op, pretend there is a clock at your feet. Right foot goes at twelve and left foot at ten, then angle your body to the left to give the person you’re talking to (or the paparazzi) a better, slimmer view.
It also makes for a better photo if you push your shoulders back, keep your eyes wide open (smiling tends to close your eyes), and lower your chin (unless you have a double chin, then raise it slightly)!
Speak Body Language.
Your mom was right! One of the most memorable things she ever said: “Stand up straight, young man.” Why did she say that? Because she knew that good posture will take five or 10 pounds off you with no sweat.
So chest out, stomach in, posture straight, walk into that job interview, sales presentation or singles bar with confidence — and walk tall!
- Don’t be a slouch! Whether you are standing or sitting, slouching can suggest that you are intimidated, that you lack confidence or that you’re uninterested in what others have to say. Swaying or bouncing your foot says that you are nervous.
- Keep your head up. If you walk with your head down it lets other people be more important than you. Look at where you’re going. Make eye contact. Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide. When you are in a meeting, it’s okay to look laterally side to side, which appears intellectual or powerful, but don’t look up or down. It makes you look as if you’ve lost your confidence.
- Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony. Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness. A good smile says you are confident, authoritative and friendly. A real smile lasts three or four seconds; anything longer appears frozen or phony.
- Hands. The first place nervous energy shows is in your hands. Don’t jingle your change, play with your ring or fiddle with your tie. Hands clasped in front of you, below your waist gives the impression of insecurity and looks like you don’t know what to do with your hands. Just let them hang at your sides, naturally and casually.To put your hands by your side and do nothing with your hands is powerful body language. Don’t hold one arm with the other, don’t clasp your hands in front or in back, and don’t stick your hands in your pockets (it makes your hind end look twice as wide.)
- Mirror, Mirror On The Wall. People are most comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Mirror: Try to “mirror” the other person’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).
- Voice pitch. Keep your pitch low. There are more men on radio, because people respond better to lower pitched voices. Don’t end a sentence with a high note, in the interrogative question tone. Instead phrase questions assertively; for example say “I’d like to know when I can meet with you,” as opposed to “when can I meet with you?”
- On the phone. Look into a mirror when you are talking on the phone. Ask yourself, would you want to talk to the person you see in the mirror? A smile can be heard over the phone, for example.
- Don’t start by apologizing. Some people start to speak by apologizing, or preface a statement with, “forgive me for saying this”. Many of us do it because we learned it from our mothers, and think it’s polite.
A note about FABRIC WEIGHT:
Heavier fabrics give the impression of a heavier body. (Tweed, flannel, bulky sweaters).
Light to medium weight fabrics visually remove pounds. (cotton, twill, linen).
A Quick Application of our new Basic Knowledge:
Most of this is also covered under what to wear for specific body types.
To Look Taller and Thinner:
- Wear clothes that fit well (too tight or too loose clothes add pounds).
- Wear solid colors, preferably in the same color range, from head to toe.
- Avoid stiff fabrics and nubby textures.
- Wear darker tones in smooth fabrics with flat finishes.
- Limit stripes to very fine, subdued, and close-together versions.
- Wear trousers at the natural waist (never below).
- Wear suspenders with button loops, never clips.
- Avoid too many accessories.
- Be sure your tie touches the waistband and that it is medium in width.
- Avoid busy patterns.
- Wear vertical stripes.
- Avoid elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets, which can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.
To Look Shorter and/or Heavier
- Wear contrasting colors in mix-and-match separates.
- Wear bolder colors as accents.
- Wear patch pockets or styling details.
- Wear layers.
- Elastic bottoms on sweaters, and jackets can cause the material to bunch up at the waist and make you look heavier.
- Wear spread-color shirts and slightly wider ties, with Windsor knots.
- Wear thin-soled, trim-looking shoes.
- Select a top coat in a huskier fabric. It can be full or belted and should fall below the knee.
- Wear trousers with deep pleats, cuffs, and full legs.
- Limit using the same color from head to toe.
- Limit the use of narrow vertical stripes, very narrow ties, and pointed lapels.
MEN’S STYLE TIPS
We think not just with our brains but with our bodies
What you wear can change how you think!
We’ve established that how you dress really does make an impression on others and affects how they perceive you and how they treat you. Ever see a guy in shorts, tee shirt and flip flops get bumped up to First Class?
NOW a new study confirms that how you dress affects you!
Adam D. Galinsky, a professor at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University, who led the study.
If you wear a white coat that you believe belongs to a doctor, your ability to pay attention increases sharply. But if you wear the same white coat believing it belongs to a painter, you will show no such improvement.
The findings, on the Web site of The Journal of Experimental Social Psychology, are a twist on a growing scientific field called embodied cognition.
We think not just with our brains but with our bodies, Dr. Galinsky said, and our thought processes are based on physical experiences that set off associated abstract concepts. Now it appears that those experiences include the clothes we wear.
There is a huge body of work on embodied cognition, Dr. Galinsky said. The experience of washing your hands is associated with moral purity and ethical judgments. People rate others personally warmer if they hold a hot drink in their hand, and colder if they hold an iced drink. If you carry a heavy clipboard, you will feel more important.
It has long been known that “clothing affects how other people perceive us as well as how we think about ourselves,” Dr. Galinsky said. Other experiments have shown that women who dress in a masculine fashion during a job interview are more likely to be hired, and a teaching assistant who wears formal clothes is perceived as more intelligent than one who dresses more casually.
Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state, he said.
SOURCE : https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/
Fashion Advice for the Gentelmen from our favorite Andy. Do check out more blogs and get the insdier information on Andy’s blog’s (www.askandyaboutclothes.com).
Helpful Tips For Avoiding The Ten Most Common Men’s Fashion Mistakes
Why be concerned with your appearance?
Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?
It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.
Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.
The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.
Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:
- Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel. Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That’s because even though it’s now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.
- Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.
- Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs. Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.
- Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You’ll appear insecure.
- Socks should match your trousers.
- Belts should match your shoes.
- Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.
- Properly knotted ties have a “dimple” under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.How to get a dimple under your knot?
Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.
The necktie knot should hide the collar button.
- Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below).
Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.
With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!
Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.
Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).
Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.
Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.
Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?
King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.
The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.
- Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4″ to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.
We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.
Insightful article on how to dress for this brutal cold weather by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.
It’s Winter: What to Wear and When
Staying warm in winter is crucial.
Follow these key tips for keeping warm and comfortable during winter by learning about fabric, layering, and facial protection.
NOTE: Some tips about your lips below this article!
It doesn’t matter if you’re snowboarding in the Alps or raking leaves in Wisconsin, a few minutes of focused thinking about what you will wear will help you keep warm and comfortable, and you’ll probably look better too!
The most effective method is to mimic the Eskimos who wore layered fur. They knew what they were doing!
Wearing a series of relatively thin layers, rather than one or two thick layers is the most effective way to retain heat.
It’s also an easy way to adjust to varying temperatures throughout the day just by adding or removing layers.
Winter Fabric Tech 101
Cotton, wool, or silk can keep you warm standing still, but a body in motion pumps out perspiration that gets trapped in natural fibers, so you’re stuck with cold, clammy fabric next to your skin.
That’s the advantage of high tech synthetics, which wick moisture away yet remains impervious to the elements.
Here are some suggestions on how to layer yourself if you’re going to be out in the cold doing any physical activity:
The primary function of the innermost layer should be to wick moisture away from your body.
Choose a synthetic fabric like Capilene, Thermax, or Prolite, all of which will wick perspiration away quickly.
The next layers should insulate plus continue to transport (wick) moisture away from the body and towards the outer shell.
It’s better to err on the side of too many layers. You can always remove something if you get too warm.
Look for fabrics that trap air to keep you warm.
Fleece, or brands like Polartec, Primaloft, Thermolite, and Thinsulate are all good options.
The outer layer’s purpose is to protect you from wind, rain and/or snow. Fabrics in the outer layer should allow for ventilation and breathability.
Make certain that it’s big enough to fit over all the other layers comfortably.
When you wear a cotton shirt or sweatshirt on top of one of these high tech fabrics that wick away perspiration, you can expect that, the outer shirt will be as wet or wetter on the inside as perspiration is “wicked” away from the body and transferred to the absorbent outer layer.
If you wear a wind shell of Gore-tex or MFT, the moisture can pass through the outer layer and evaporate, leaving you more comfortable.
The outer shell must protect against the elements, especially wind and water, to keep the other layers dry. Look for waterproof fabrics that also breathe, such Gore-tex, or Supplex.
Keep all the layers loose.
This is for insulation as well as comfort.
You’ll want your pants to be loose enough at the ankle and calf to roll up to mid-calf for proper ski boot fit.
Wear only one pair of well fitting ski socks that come up to the knee or at least mid-calf.
Loose socks can slip around and multiple pairs of socks can affect your boot fit.
Be careful not to buckle your ski boots too tightly. Restricting circulation can make our feet colder.
Thirty percent of body heat is lost through the head, so bring a hat. A hat that also covers your ears is the best choice.
Don’t loose your mittens, and when you buy ski clothes try to work the zippers, and other closures with your gloves on!
You’ll need it for après-ski. Experiment with a facemask, bandanna or cowl neckpiece to see what works best for you.
Winter cold, and the UV radiation from the sun (and reflected off the snow) is brutal on skin so it’s important to put moisturizer with high SPF sunscreen protection on your face and keep your lips sealed with lip balm (remember Suzy Chapstick!).
Even the high heat/low humidity indoors dries out your skin.
Don’t forget to moisturize from the inside with plenty of water (water, not hot buttered rums) before, after and while you’re doing any vigorous activity, especially at high climes.
Your nose dries out too, at higher altitudes so remember a little Vaseline inside your nostrils helps prevent nosebleeds.
The eyes have it too – glare, wind and cold. Goggles or sunglasses are essential for eye protection.
Altitude or mountain sickness (both colloquialisms for AMS, Acute Mountain Sickness) is your body reacting to lack of oxygen at higher altitudes.
We ascend too quickly to get used to the change (thanks to modern transportation).
Most common symptoms are headache, muscle aches, nausea, fatigue and insomnia. A good idea is to stay one night at a slightly lower altitude than your destination.
What could hurt spending one night in Denver before you hit Vail?
Also ask your doctor about prescriptions (and their side effects) that may help.
Drink lots of water – a minimum of 2 liters per day. If Adding Gatorade or drink mixes makes it easier to get it down, go for it.
For après skiing pain also hydrate. Water flushes lactic acid (a primary cause of soreness and stiffness) from muscle cells and also lubricates joints.
Jumping into the hot tub for at least 15 minutes both before and after skiing helps warm up you muscles.
Thanks for help on AMS from Dr. Rutherford Johnson, high-altitude mountaineer, and explorer.
Keep warm and good luck. If you have any further fashion questions, I’ll be in the bar next to the fireplace.
The experts at your ski-clothing store can explain all the latest High-tech fabrics.
I think about three new miracle materials are invented each hour these days.
Here are some current popular types:
Capilene is polyester that has been treated with a chemical bond that does not wash out.
Capilene keeps you dry by “wicking” moisture away from the skin.
Patagonia, Inc., who uses Capilene in its products claims it is superior to polypropylene and other hollow-core polyesters.
Those hydrophobic fibers easily absorb moisture but are inefficient at releasing it while Capilene, because it combines hydrophobic and hydrophilic molecules in each fiber, disperse moisture quickly.
Capilene is machine washable and dryable, and it also contains an anti-microbial finish to cut down on bacteria that causes odors.
A polyester, was originally designed to be worn under the hot uniforms of soldiers and police officers.
The Coolmax Ultra Cool RVU (for “ribbed, ventilated undergarment”) is specially designed to keep you cool in hot weather while other Coolmax products are designed to keep you warm in cold weather.
When your clothing gets wet and sticks to your skin, it stops the evaporation process that keeps us cool.
Coolmax was developed to keep an air space between your skin and outer garments so that your body can perform its evaporation process.
Cordura is created from ‘high-bulk’ yarn, with filaments that are looped and tangled within the yarn bundle.
This arrangement gives a “Cordura” weave bulk equal to or higher than that found in spun yarns, and offers greater abrasion resistance than either cotton or other man-made fibers.
A comparison of Cordura to cotton duck fabric of equal thickness shows Cordura weighs half as much, has three times the tear strength and three times the abrasion resistance.
A brand name, is one of the first and probably the most famous of the high-tech athletic clothing fabrics. Gore-tex is waterproof and breathable.
It is a membrane attached to outer and liner fabrics that prevents large drops, such as rain, from penetrating but allows tiny droplets, such as perspiration, to pass through and evaporate.
Is a silky fabric, composed of micro-thin filaments (half the thickness of a strand of silk) of polyester or nylon tightly woven into a fabric that sheds water, stops wind.
Micro Flow Transmission, works on the same theory as Gore-tex but at a more modest price.
Tiny pores allow perspiration to escape but block water and wind from entering.
A brand name fabric, is polyester that is napped and finished on both sides creating tiny air pockets, which trap warm air, and it breathes!
Which is sold under brand name LIFA, was the first of the “wicking” fabrics that transported sweat away from the body, keeping the fabric next to the skin relatively dry and comfortable.
There are several generations of polypropylene, including a new generation (“Prolite”) that can be washed and machine dried.
Earlier polypropylene fabric was meant to be line dried.
A brand name for a lightweight non-absorbent synthetic insulation, which stays warm even when wet.
A nylon fabric that Dupont created with the good qualities of nylon (easy-care, great color retention, little or no ironing, durability, softness, etc.) without the stickiness that nylon creates.
Supplex is a wicking, breathable nylon that comes in many styles including wovens and knits, and can be found with many different treatments such as water proof/repellent, sun-protective or anti-microbial.
This fabric is used to line other breathable fabrics, like the outer layer of a breathable garment, or can simply be used alone as outerwear.
Solarweave and Solar Knit
Both from the Solar Protective Factory, are breathable fabrics (either due to the style of knit/weave and/or the addition of special wicking additives).
They are light-weight, cotton-like, wicking, color-retentive, easy-care, odor and mildew resistant, and block 95% to 99% of the sun’s harmful UVA an UVB rays!
Skin cancer is a fast growing disease that accumulates after repeated exposures over time and surfaces later in your lifetime.
It’s not something that you get upon immediate exposure to the sun, nor do you need to be sunburned to have harmful ultraviolet radiation absorbed into your skin.
We lather up our exposed skin with high SPF lotion, but a typical cotton T-shirt will block only 50% of the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays.
Get it wet and it actually transmits 10% to 20% more rays.
These fabrics retain sun-protective properties even after two years of wear and tear and have passed extensive FDA requirements for skin irritation/sensitivity, abrasion and UV blocking abilities.
Describes brand name products usually containing a Supplex shell, Polartec lining and a thin insulation.
A soft, strong nylon brand name fabric, which is water-repellent and wind resistant.
A fabric made from wood fibers, which is soft as silk, and as breathable as cotton.
The difference between Rayon (also made from wood fibers) and Tencel is that Rayon is made using a chemical process, while Tencel production uses a spinning process.
Tencel lends a fluid quality when woven with other fibers.
Wools drape better, linen has fewer wrinkles, and denims become softer.
A hollow-cored fiber 1/6 the diameter of a human hair that retains heat for insulation.
It has a soft, silky feel and its large surface area helps wick moisture away from the body.
It is machine washable and dryable and, unlike polypropylene, does not retain odors.
Thermolite & Thinsulate
Both brand names for a polyester fiber insulation that provides warmth without bulk.
A waterproof, windproof, durable and breathable fabric system. A microporous coating is applied to the underside of the fabric.
The micropores are small enough to block out wind and rain, yet large enough to permit perspiration vapor molecules to escape.
A durable finish causes water to bead up on the outside to keep the fabric dry.
In testing to measure a materials ability to prevent water from passing through the fabric, Ultrex kept the wearer drier far longer than any other waterproof/breathable fabric.
And, in a “moisture penetration test,” which demonstrates how well the fabric stands up to wetness under constant pressure, Ultrex retained its capacity even after repeated washings.
Developed during World War II by the British under Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill’s orders.
The requirement was to find a fabric that would help RAF Hurricane and Spitfire pilots survive the cold North Atlantic waters if they were shot down while escorting convoys.
Ventile is a light, waterproof, windproof fabric made of dense long-staple cotton. And it breathes!
Air molecules easily pass though, but larger water molecules are blocked.
The fabric swells when wet making it even more impenetrable.
Frozen Lips (can) sink ships and hurt!
Here are some helpful tips to help prevent chapped, cracked and dry lips in winter.
With cold winter weather, many of us experience dry, cracked and painful lips.
The skin of the lips is very thin (some of the thinnest on our body) and lips have very few oil glands to help keep them lubricated and moisturized.
Dry lips can be a sign of disorders, like an allergic reaction to your toothpaste, and even skin care products or face medications may be the cause.
Break the lip-licking cycle Many people think that licking the lips helps the dryness, but it can actually cause dry, cracked lips.
Digestive enzymes and bacteria in saliva can damage the lips, leaving them in worse shape.
When the moisture evaporates after you have licked your lips, they become even drier as they lose the moisture into the dry, cold air.
Instead, break yourself of the lip-licking habit and apply a moisturizer or lip balm throughout the day.
Eliminate the cause of the condition
Products that cause dry lip reactions include toothpaste, mouthwash, and lip balm.
It is the flavoring agent, cinnamate, in toothpaste and mouthwash that can cause a chapping reaction.
Chapping from an allergic reaction to a skin care product will go away when you stop using the product.
If you suspect that you are having an allergic reaction, stop the product for 10 to 14 days and you should see an improvement.
Several medications may cause dry, chapped lips, for example, benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and Retin-A used for acne, or Renova used for repairing the wrinkling of the skin.
Consider discontinuing these products until the lips improve.
To prevent and repair chapping, use a lip balm or petrolatum-based ointment (Vaseline, Aquaphor) to seal in moisture and form a protective barrier.
Use it frequently throughout the day.
Awesome article on how to measure men suit jacket by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.
Instructions On Measuring a Man’s Jacket.
By Andrew Harris
I’ve received requests from some of the members of the Ask Andy Forum for instructions on how to measure a men’s jackets.
In order to take advantage of the great deals on eBay one has to learn how to properly measure a coat that fits well and to compare those measurements to those provided by the eBay seller.
DO NOT rely on a tagged size.
I’ve measured at least 2500 coats and believe me – tagged size means next to nothing.
Instead measure the jacket in your wardrobe that fits you best. Memorize those measurements. Then use them as a baseline when looking at possible purchases on eBay.
So here goes. There are five measurements that most sellers provide when selling a tailored jacket. I’m using a (measured) size 42 Hermes sports jacket as an example.
1) Chest measurement
This is the most important measurement. It is the measurement that varies the least, it cannot be easily changed (altered,) and it determines the size of the jacket.
In general the tagged size refers to the chest measurement of the individual.
So if your chest measures 42” you likely wear a size 42 jacket. It is a common misconception that a size 42 jacket would then have a 42” chest.
This is NOT the case (if it did the jacket would be so tight you would have difficulty breathing and certainly would not be able to move.)
Almost every tailor and manufacturer on the planet cuts the chest of the jacket 4” larger than the actual chest measurement of the individual.
Occasionally you will find jackets that measure 3” larger, or as much as 5” larger but 95% of the time it is 4” larger.
A size 42 jacket would have an actual chest (outseam) measurement of 46.” Beware of eBay sellers who say a jacket is a size 42 and that it measures 42” in the chest.
a) it actually measures 42” and the jacket is therefore a size 38, or
b) it is actually a size 42 and they don’t know how to measure correctly.
Or some combination thereof.
To measure the chest of a jacket that fits you well, lay it on a clean flat surface and button it.
If it is a two or three button jacket button the second button (from the bottom) only. If it is double breasted button it completely.
Arrange the jacket so that you get an accurate measurement.
In the first picture the jacket is arranged properly.
In the second picture it is stretched too far which gives an inaccurately large measurement.
You can tell it is stretched to far because the lapels are buckled outward.
In the third picture the jacket is not stretched out far enough.
If you arrange it this way the fabric will be bunched up at the back of the jacket – giving an inaccurately small chest measurement.
This same method applies to all five measurements.
Make sure you stretch the area you are measuring to the point where you are measuring the full amount of the fabric present – but do not overstretch it.
If you overstretch it you are simulating a jacket that does not fit.
2) Waist measurement
The waist of the jacket can be found at different points depending on the make. It is usually found at the second button (from the bottom.)
The waist measurement is usually 2-4” smaller than the chest measurement.
2” smaller on jackets that are targeted at older men (Hickey Freeman, Oxxford, most Brioni & Kiton etc.)
4” smaller on jackets that are meant for younger men (most designers.)
3) Shoulder width
This measurement should be taken from shoulder seam to shoulder seam at the widest point (as pictured.)
4) Jacket Length
Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat as pictured. Some sellers indicate the overall length instead.
In that case you can usually assume that the “bottom of collar to bottom of coat” measurement is 1.5” less (1.5” being the height of the collar.)
5) Sleeve length
This is taken from the top of the sleeve at the shoulder seam to the middle of the end of the sleeve (as pictured.)
As you can see the end of the sleeve is often cut on a slant so make sure to measure in a straight line down the sleeve.
I also indicate in my auctions how far the sleeves can be let down.
I arrive at this measurement by feeling how much extra fabric there is and subtracting 1.”
(I figure there should be at least 1” of fabric to hem under although some tailors may be able to use facing and make the sleeve even longer.)
Within a certain size nearly every “standard” measurement is subject to change depending on the overall silhouette the designer or tailor is going for.
Here are some common variations.
The chest measurement is the only measurement that stays fairly consistent from brand to brand. And even that changes.
Companies going for a slimmer, dressier look may cut the chest slightly smaller. Drape cut suits will have a slightly large chest.
Also some “athletic cut” suits have a large chest measurement – usually combined with very wide shoulders and a very small waist. (Avoid this cut like the plague unless you are built like Arnold.)
In general though, the chest is cut 4” larger than your actual chest measurement.
As mentioned the waist is usually cut larger on more expensive suits ($1000+) and slimmer on low-to-mid-range and designer suits.
Designers tweak the shoulder more than anything else. Currently they are running on the narrow side.
You should determine a minimum (jacket) shoulder width for you personally.
If the shoulder measurement listed in the auction is wider it may still look fine on you – it depends on the overall cut and also the look you are going for.
This is the other measurement that designers love to mess with. Currently jackets are being cut on the longer side.
Generally 30” – 32” indicates a regular and 32” + indicates a long.
The one rule to keep in mind – the jacket must cover your posterior.
Sleeve length is the easiest alteration to make.
Generally the sleeves will be too long as it’s easier to shorten a sleeve than it is too lengthen it.
If the listed measurement is too short then ask the seller how much fabric there is to let the sleeve down.
Older (10-20 years old) suits almost always have a waist that is 4” smaller than the chest. In fact the chest and shoulders are usually narrower too.
Often if I’m selling an older suit (Oxxford for instance) that is tagged a size 44 I’ll sell it as a size 42.
I do this because the measurements correspond to a current size 42 Oxxford suit.
Generally you get the US size by subtracting 10 from the European size.
For instance a Euro 52 usually corresponds to a US 42. But there are plenty of exceptions so rely on the measurements.
The Hermes jacket pictured is tagged a Euro 54 and it measures to a slim 42.
Made to measure
A made to measure garment will usually have tagged size that is 1-2 sizes larger than the actual measurements indicate.
I’m guessing they start with a larger pattern and then cut it down as needed but I’m not certain.
Previously altered garments
If you buy previously worn garments they may have been altered.
In this day and age most guys leave their jackets exactly as they bought them.
But never assume. Rely on the measurements.
The strange and the unexplainable
When the tagged size has no basis in reality you are usually dealing with an Armani.
I’ve seen a lot of Black Label jackets that were tagged a size 58 Euro that measured to a size 44 or even a 42.
So once again – measurements are your most reliable guide.
I get a lot of questions about what can and cannot be altered.
Basically you can almost always alter the sleeves. And you can usually have the back taken in or out a bit to change the waist measurement.
The chest and shoulders can be altered, but you will need a very skilled tailor.
Jackets can also be shortened, but usually only by 1/2 “, any more and the pockets will look too low, unless they were placed high to begin with.
Hopefully this will be of some use, and I wish you all the best in your search for the perfect suit at the perfect price!