What you wear can change how you think!

MEN’S STYLE TIPS

We think not just with our brains but with our bodies

What you wear can change how you think!

We’ve established that how you dress really does make an impression on others and affects how they perceive you and how they treat you. Ever see a guy in shorts, tee shirt and flip flops get bumped up to First Class?

“Clothes Do Make the Man”

NOW a new study confirms that how you dress affects you!

Adam D. Galinsky, a professor at the Kellogg School of Management at Northwestern University, who led the study.

white coatIf you wear a white coat that you believe belongs to a doctor, your ability to pay attention increases  sharply. But if you wear the same white coat believing it belongs to a painter, you will show no such improvement.

The findings, on the Web site of The Journal of Experimental Social Psychology, are a twist on a growing scientific field called embodied cognition.

We think not just with our brains but with our bodies, Dr. Galinsky said, and our thought processes are based on physical experiences that set off associated abstract concepts. Now it appears that those experiences include the clothes we wear.

There is a huge body of work on embodied cognition, Dr. Galinsky said. The experience of washing your hands is associated with moral purity and ethical judgments. People rate others personally warmer if they hold a hot drink in their hand, and colder if they hold an iced drink. If you carry a heavy clipboard, you will feel more important.

It has long been known that “clothing affects how other people perceive us as well as how we think about ourselves,” Dr. Galinsky said. Other experiments have shown that women who dress in a masculine fashion during a job interview are more likely to be hired, and a teaching assistant who wears formal clothes is perceived as more intelligent than one who dresses more casually.

clothes and psychology

Clothes invade the body and brain, putting the wearer into a different psychological state, he said.

SOURCE :  https://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/

 

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The Ten Most Common Men’s Fashion Mistakes

Fashion Advice for the Gentelmen from our favorite Andy. Do check out more blogs and get the insdier information on Andy’s blog’s (www.askandyaboutclothes.com).

Helpful Tips For Avoiding The Ten Most Common Men’s Fashion Mistakes

Why be concerned with your appearance?

Is it really that important to your career, romance, or influence over others?

Absolutely!

It’s a scientific fact that people who don’t know you make up their minds about you on a subliminal/prehistoric basis in 30 seconds or less. This evaluation of you by others takes place so quickly and is so entrenched in the human brain that it is not usually conscious thought.

Behavioral scientists tell us that we notice the following about another human being and in this order: Skin color, Sex, Age, Bearing (height, body language, etc.), Appearance, Direct Eye Contact, and Speech.

The first three we can do nothing about, but we can take advantage of this knowledge to enhance and control how to present the best image of ourselves.

Since 80% of what others see is our clothes, lets look at some basic faux pas:

  1.   Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie. Short sleeve shirts are perceived as lower class apparel.  Fine as part of a uniform or if you aspire to be a fast-food manager, not if you want to project a professional image.And the Button-Down collar dress shirt is not acceptable for dressy eveningwear (after 6 PM) nor with a double-breasted suit. That’s because even though it’s now a daytime business classic it was originally a sport shirt. The collar was buttoned-down by polo players to keep it from flapping in their faces.
  2. Shoes are one of the most evaluated elements of men’s wardrobes. Your shoes should be clean, shined, in good repair and appropriate for the occasion. If you are wearing a suit, wear lace-up shoes.Don’t wear the same shoe on consecutive days and keep shoetrees in your shoes when you’re not wearing them.
  3.  Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and socks should cover your shins even when you cross your legs.   Pants are long enough if they have a slight break in the front.Pleats and cuffs are traditional and functional. Pleats let you sit down comfortably and cuffs add weight to the bottoms allowing for proper drape.
  4. Never wear both a belt and braces (suspenders). You’ll appear insecure.
  5. Socks should match your trousers.
  6. Belts should match your shoes.
  7.  Ties should reach your belt line. This is neither arbitrary nor negotiable. Too short of a tie makes you look like a rube.
  8. Properly knotted ties have a dimple under the knot. Clips and tacks are out of date.How to get a dimple under your knot?  

    Place your index finger in the middle of the tie just under where the knot is forming, pinch that part of the necktie between your thumb and middle finger and squeeze together as you pull it down and tighten the knot.

    The necktie knot should hide the collar button.

  9. Suit and Sports jackets are symbols of authority. However the bottom buttons of men’s jackets are not designed to be buttoned, since King Edward VII gained weight, and started a fashion trend (see detail below).
    NO! NEVER!!

    YES!

    Single Breasted suits can have one, two, three or more buttons. Two and three button jackets are classic, one or more than three get you into the fashion forward arena, which is more suitable for social events than business. With two button jackets only the top button is fastened.

    With three button jackets, you can close the middle, or middle and top button. Some suits are made so that the lapels roll to the middle button. On those suits you leave the top button unfastened. Some East Coast hipsters fasten only the top of three buttons!

    Four or more button jackets may be designed to fasten all the buttons, even the bottom. If the bottom button of a four button can be closed without a noticeable pulling of the fabric, it’s ok to close or leave it open.

    Double Breasted suits are the more formal of the two styles and can have four to six buttons with one or two “to button”. They are often identified by a two-number designation such as 4/2, 4/1 or 6/2 (also “four to two”).

    Translated, the first number gives the total number of front buttons and the second is the number of functioning buttonholes. It doesn’t always mean that all the buttons have to be fastened.

    Often only the middle or upper button is secured on a 4/2 or 6/2, but the Duke of Kent started buttoning only his lower button creating a longer diagonal line across his chest giving the wearer a thinner, more dynamic look.

    Why do men never button the bottom button of your suit, sports jacket, vest or Cardigan sweater?

    King Edward VII, “Bertie”, son of Victoria (1841 – 1910, King 1901 – 1910) was so heavy that he could not get the bottom button fastened on his vest or to be more historically kind, maybe he just forgot. His subjects taking it as a fashion statement followed his lead and today most men’s suits, sports jackets or vests are not designed to button the bottom button.

    The tradition of not buttoning the bottom button may have also come from the early waistcoats, which were very long. It may have been out of necessity of being able to walk that the bottom buttons were left undone.

  10. Suit and Sports jackets should fit properly which includes showing 1/4″ to 1/2” of “linen” or shirtsleeve at the jacket sleeve.

We live in a complex, crowded society where considerate people dress appropriately for various places and occasions. Dressing appropriately is about respect for your fellow humans and our institutions.

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com

Keeping Warm & Comfortable In Winter

Insightful article on how to dress for this brutal cold weather by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

It’s Winter: What to Wear and When

Staying warm in winter is crucial.

Follow these key tips for keeping warm and comfortable during winter by learning about fabric, layering, and facial protection.

NOTE: Some tips about your lips below this article!

It doesn’t matter if you’re snowboarding in the Alps or raking leaves in Wisconsin, a few minutes of focused thinking about what you will wear will help you keep warm and comfortable, and you’ll probably look better too!

The most effective method is to mimic the Eskimos who wore layered fur.  They knew what they were doing!

Wearing a series of relatively thin layers, rather than one or two thick layers is the most effective way to retain heat.

It’s also an easy way to adjust to varying temperatures throughout the day just by adding or removing layers.

Winter Fabric Tech 101

Cotton, wool, or silk can keep you warm standing still, but a body in motion pumps out perspiration that gets trapped in natural fibers, so you’re stuck with cold, clammy fabric next to your skin.

That’s the advantage of high tech synthetics, which wick moisture away yet remains impervious to the elements.

Here are some suggestions on how to layer yourself if you’re going to be out in the cold doing any physical activity:

Base layer

The primary function of the innermost layer should be to wick moisture away from your body.

Choose a synthetic fabric like Capilene, Thermax, or Prolite, all of which will wick perspiration away quickly.

Mid-layer

The next layers should insulate plus continue to transport (wick)  moisture away from the body and towards the outer shell.

It’s better to err on the side of too many layers.  You can always remove something if you get too warm.

Look for fabrics that trap air to keep you warm.

Fleece, or brands like Polartec, Primaloft, Thermolite, and Thinsulate are all good options.

Outerwear

The outer layer’s purpose is to protect you from wind, rain and/or snow.  Fabrics in the outer layer should allow for ventilation and breathability.

Make certain that it’s big enough to fit over all the other layers comfortably.

When you wear a cotton shirt or sweatshirt on top of one of these high tech fabrics that wick away perspiration, you can expect that, the outer shirt will be as wet or wetter on the inside as perspiration is “wicked” away from the body and transferred to the absorbent outer layer.

If you wear a wind shell of Gore-tex or MFT, the moisture can pass through the outer layer and evaporate, leaving you more comfortable.

The outer shell must protect against the elements, especially wind and water, to keep the other layers dry. Look for waterproof fabrics that also breathe, such Gore-tex, or Supplex.

Keep all the layers loose.

This is for insulation as well as comfort.

You’ll want your pants to be loose enough at the  ankle and calf to roll up to mid-calf for proper ski boot fit.

Wear only one pair of well fitting ski socks that come up to the knee or at least mid-calf.

Loose socks can slip around and multiple pairs of socks can affect your boot fit.

Be careful not to buckle your ski boots too tightly. Restricting circulation can make our feet colder.

Thirty percent of body heat is lost through the head, so bring a hat.  A hat that also covers your ears is the best choice.

Don’t loose your mittens, and when you buy ski clothes try to work the zippers, and other closures with your gloves on!

Protect that face.

You’ll need it for après-ski. Experiment with a facemask, bandanna or cowl neckpiece to see what works best for you.

Winter cold, and the UV radiation from the sun (and reflected off the snow) is brutal on skin so it’s important to put moisturizer with high SPF sunscreen protection on your face and keep your lips sealed with lip balm (remember Suzy Chapstick!).

Even the high heat/low humidity indoors dries out your skin.

Don’t forget to moisturize from the inside with plenty of water (water, not hot buttered rums) before, after and while you’re doing any vigorous activity, especially at high climes.

Your nose dries out too, at higher altitudes so remember a little Vaseline inside your nostrils helps prevent nosebleeds.

The eyes have it too – glare, wind and cold.  Goggles or sunglasses are essential for eye protection.

Altitude or mountain sickness (both colloquialisms for AMS, Acute Mountain Sickness) is your body reacting to lack of oxygen at higher altitudes.

We ascend too quickly to get used to the change (thanks to modern transportation).

Most common symptoms are headache, muscle aches, nausea, fatigue and insomnia.  A good idea is to stay one night at a slightly lower altitude than your destination.

What could hurt spending one night in Denver before you hit Vail?

Also ask your doctor about prescriptions (and their side effects) that may help.

Drink lots of water – a minimum of 2 liters per day. If Adding Gatorade or drink mixes makes it easier to get it down, go for it.

For après skiing pain also hydrate.  Water flushes lactic acid (a primary cause of soreness and stiffness) from muscle cells and also lubricates joints.

Jumping into the hot tub for at least 15 minutes both before and after skiing helps warm up you muscles.

Thanks for help on AMS from Dr. Rutherford Johnson, high-altitude mountaineer, and explorer.

Keep warm and good luck.  If you have any further fashion questions, I’ll be in the bar next to the fireplace.

The experts at your ski-clothing store can explain all the latest High-tech fabrics.

I think about three new miracle materials are invented each hour these days.

Here are some current popular types:

Capilene

Capilene is polyester that has been treated with a chemical bond that does not wash out.

Capilene keeps you dry by “wicking” moisture away from the skin.

Patagonia, Inc., who uses Capilene in its products claims it is superior to polypropylene and other hollow-core polyesters.

Those hydrophobic fibers easily absorb moisture but are inefficient at releasing it while Capilene, because it combines hydrophobic and hydrophilic molecules in each fiber, disperse moisture quickly.

Capilene is machine washable and dryable, and it also contains an anti-microbial finish to cut down on bacteria that causes odors.

Coolmax

A polyester, was originally designed to be worn under the hot uniforms of soldiers and police officers.

The Coolmax Ultra Cool RVU (for “ribbed, ventilated undergarment”) is specially designed to keep you cool in hot weather while other Coolmax products are designed to keep you warm in cold weather.

When your clothing gets wet and sticks to your skin, it stops the evaporation process that keeps us cool.

Coolmax was developed to keep an air space between your skin and outer garments so that your body can perform its evaporation process.

Cordura

Cordura is created from ‘high-bulk’ yarn, with filaments that are looped and tangled within the yarn bundle.

This arrangement gives a “Cordura” weave bulk equal to or higher than that found in spun yarns, and offers greater abrasion resistance than either cotton or other man-made fibers.

A comparison of Cordura to cotton duck fabric of equal thickness shows Cordura weighs half as much, has three times the tear strength and three times the abrasion resistance.

This is one tough fabric that looks and feels like cotton canvas, but will out-perform and out-last cotton canvas.

Gore-tex

A brand name, is one of the first and probably the most famous of the high-tech athletic clothing fabrics. Gore-tex is waterproof and breathable.

It is a membrane attached to outer and liner fabrics that prevents large drops, such as rain, from penetrating but allows tiny droplets, such as perspiration, to pass through and evaporate.

Microfiber

Is a silky fabric, composed of micro-thin filaments (half the thickness of a strand of silk) of polyester or nylon tightly woven into a fabric that sheds water, stops wind.

MFT

Micro Flow Transmission, works on the same theory as Gore-tex but at a more modest price.

Tiny pores allow perspiration to escape but block water and wind from entering.

Polartec

A brand name fabric, is polyester that is napped and finished on both sides creating tiny air pockets, which trap warm air, and it breathes!

Polypropylene

Which is sold under brand name LIFA, was the first of the “wicking” fabrics that transported sweat away from the body, keeping the fabric next to the skin relatively dry and comfortable.

There are several generations of polypropylene, including a new generation (“Prolite”) that can be washed and machine dried.

Earlier polypropylene fabric was meant to be line dried.

Primaloft

A brand name for a lightweight non-absorbent synthetic insulation, which stays warm even when wet.

Supplex

A nylon fabric that Dupont created with the good qualities of nylon (easy-care, great color retention, little or no ironing, durability, softness, etc.) without the stickiness that nylon creates.

Supplex is a wicking, breathable nylon that comes in many styles including wovens and knits, and can be found with many different treatments such as water proof/repellent, sun-protective or anti-microbial.

This fabric is used to line other breathable fabrics, like the outer layer of a breathable garment, or can simply be used alone as outerwear.

Solarweave and Solar Knit

Both from the Solar Protective Factory, are breathable fabrics (either due to the style of knit/weave and/or the addition of special wicking additives).

They are light-weight, cotton-like, wicking, color-retentive, easy-care, odor and mildew resistant, and block 95% to 99% of the sun’s harmful UVA an UVB rays!

Skin cancer is a fast growing disease that accumulates after repeated exposures over time and surfaces later in your lifetime.

It’s not something that you get upon immediate exposure to the sun, nor do you need to be sunburned to have harmful ultraviolet radiation absorbed into your skin.

We lather up our exposed skin with high SPF lotion, but a typical cotton T-shirt will block only 50% of the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays.

Get it wet and it actually transmits 10% to 20% more rays.

These fabrics retain sun-protective properties even after two years of wear and tear and have passed extensive FDA requirements for skin irritation/sensitivity, abrasion and UV blocking abilities.

Squalls

Describes brand name products usually containing a Supplex shell, Polartec lining and a thin insulation.

Supplex

A soft, strong nylon brand name fabric, which is water-repellent and wind resistant.

Tencel

A fabric made from wood fibers, which is soft as silk, and as breathable as cotton.

The difference between Rayon (also made from wood fibers) and Tencel is that Rayon is made using a chemical process, while Tencel production uses a spinning process.

Tencel lends a fluid quality when woven with other fibers.

Wools drape better, linen has fewer wrinkles, and denims become softer.

Thermax

A hollow-cored fiber 1/6 the diameter of a human hair that retains heat for insulation.

It has a soft, silky feel and its large surface area helps wick moisture away from the body.

It is machine washable and dryable and, unlike polypropylene, does not retain odors.

Thermolite Thinsulate

Both brand names for a polyester fiber insulation that provides warmth without bulk.

Ultrex

A waterproof, windproof, durable and breathable fabric system. A microporous coating is applied to the underside of the fabric.

The micropores are small enough to block out wind and rain, yet large enough to permit perspiration vapor molecules to escape.

A durable finish causes water to bead up on the outside to keep the fabric dry.

In testing to measure a materials ability to prevent water from passing through the fabric, Ultrex kept the wearer drier far longer than any other waterproof/breathable fabric.

And, in a “moisture penetration test,” which demonstrates how well the fabric stands up to wetness under constant pressure, Ultrex retained its capacity even after repeated washings.

Ventile

Developed during World War II by the British under Sir Winston Leonard Spencer Churchill’s orders.

The requirement was to find a fabric that would help RAF Hurricane and Spitfire pilots survive the cold North Atlantic waters if they were shot down while escorting convoys.

Ventile is a light, waterproof, windproof fabric made of dense long-staple cotton.  And it breathes!

Air molecules easily pass though, but larger water molecules are blocked.

The fabric swells when wet making it even more impenetrable.

Frozen Lips (can) sink ships and hurt!

Here are some helpful tips to help prevent chapped, cracked and dry lips in winter.

With cold winter weather, many of us experience dry, cracked and painful lips.

The skin of the lips is very thin (some of the thinnest on our body) and lips have very few oil glands to help keep them lubricated and moisturized.

Dry lips can be a sign of disorders, like an allergic reaction to your toothpaste, and even skin care products or face medications may be the cause.

Break the lip-licking cycle Many people think that licking the lips helps the dryness, but it can actually cause dry, cracked lips.

Digestive enzymes and bacteria in saliva can damage the lips, leaving them in worse shape.

When the moisture evaporates after you have licked your lips, they become even drier as they lose the moisture into the dry, cold air.

Instead, break yourself of the lip-licking habit and apply a moisturizer or lip balm throughout the day.

Eliminate the cause of the condition

Products that cause dry lip reactions include toothpaste, mouthwash, and lip balm.

It is the flavoring agent, cinnamate, in toothpaste and mouthwash that can cause a chapping reaction.

And some people are allergic to the sunscreen ingredient oxybenzone, found in lip balms that contain sunscreen.

Chapping from an allergic reaction to a skin care product will go away when you stop using the product.

If you suspect that you are having an allergic reaction, stop the product for 10 to 14 days and you should see an improvement.

Several medications may cause dry, chapped lips, for example,  benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid and Retin-A used for acne, or Renova used for repairing the wrinkling of the skin.

Consider discontinuing these products until the lips improve.

Moisturize

To prevent and repair chapping, use a lip balm or petrolatum-based ointment (Vaseline, Aquaphor) to seal in moisture and form a protective barrier.

Use it frequently throughout the day.

Measuring Man’s Suit Jacket 101.

Awesome article on how to measure men suit jacket by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

Instructions On Measuring a Man’s Jacket.

By Andrew Harris

I’ve received requests from some of the members of the Ask Andy Forum for instructions on how to measure a men’s jackets.

In order to take advantage of the great deals on eBay one has to learn how to properly measure a coat that fits well and to compare those measurements to those provided by the eBay seller.

DO NOT rely on a tagged size.

I’ve measured at least 2500 coats and believe me – tagged size means next to nothing.

Instead measure the jacket in your wardrobe that fits you best. Memorize those measurements. Then use them as a baseline when looking at possible purchases on eBay.

So here goes. There are five measurements that most sellers provide when selling a tailored jacket. I’m using a (measured) size 42 Hermes sports jacket as an example.

1) Chest measurement

This is the most important measurement. It is the measurement that varies the least, it cannot be easily changed (altered,) and it determines the size of the jacket.

In general the tagged size refers to the chest measurement of the individual.

So if your chest measures 42” you likely wear a size 42 jacket. It is a common misconception that a size 42 jacket would then have a 42” chest.

This is NOT the case (if it did the jacket would be so tight you would have difficulty breathing and certainly would not be able to move.)

Almost every tailor and manufacturer on the planet cuts the chest of the jacket 4” larger than the actual chest measurement of the individual.

Occasionally you will find jackets that measure 3” larger, or as much as 5” larger but 95% of the time it is 4” larger.

A size 42 jacket would have an actual chest (outseam) measurement of 46.” Beware of eBay sellers who say a jacket is a size 42 and that it measures 42” in the chest.

Either

a) it actually measures 42” and the jacket is therefore a size 38, or

b) it is actually a size 42 and they don’t know how to measure correctly.

Or some combination thereof.

To measure the chest of a jacket that fits you well, lay it on a clean flat surface and button it.

If it is a two or three button jacket button the second button (from the bottom) only. If it is double breasted button it completely.

Arrange the jacket so that you get an accurate measurement.

In the first picture the jacket is arranged properly.

jacket chest measurement

 

measuring your sports jacket

Photo 2: Inaccurate measurement due to stretching

In the second picture it is stretched too far which gives an inaccurately large measurement.

You can tell it is stretched to far because the lapels are buckled outward.

jacket not strettched

In the third picture the jacket is not stretched out far enough.

If you arrange it this way the fabric will be bunched up at the back of the jacket – giving an inaccurately small chest measurement.

This same method applies to all five measurements.

Make sure you stretch the area you are measuring to the point where you are measuring the full amount of the fabric present – but do not overstretch it.

If you overstretch it you are simulating a jacket that does not fit.

2) Waist measurement

The waist of the jacket can be found at different points depending on the make. It is usually found at the second button (from the bottom.)

The waist measurement is usually 2-4” smaller than the chest measurement.

2” smaller on jackets that are targeted at older men (Hickey Freeman, Oxxford, most Brioni & Kiton etc.)

4” smaller on jackets that are meant for younger men (most designers.)

jacket waist measurement

3)  Shoulder width

This measurement should be taken from shoulder seam to shoulder seam at the widest point (as pictured.)

Measuring shoulder width

 

4) Jacket Length

Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat as pictured. Some sellers indicate the overall length instead.

In that case you can usually assume that the “bottom of collar to bottom of coat” measurement is 1.5” less (1.5” being the height of the collar.)

Measuring jacket length

 

5) Sleeve length

This is taken from the top of the sleeve at the shoulder seam to the middle of the end of the sleeve (as pictured.)

As you can see the end of the sleeve is often cut on a slant so make sure to measure in a straight line down the sleeve.

I also indicate in my auctions how far the sleeves can be let down.

I arrive at this measurement by feeling how much extra fabric there is and subtracting 1.”

(I figure there should be at least 1” of fabric to hem under although some tailors may be able to use facing and make the sleeve even longer.)

Measure jacket sleeve length

 

Standard variations:

Within a certain size nearly every “standard” measurement is subject to change depending on the overall silhouette the designer or tailor is going for.

Here are some common variations.

Chest 

The chest measurement is the only measurement that stays fairly consistent from brand to brand. And even that changes.

Companies going for a slimmer, dressier look may cut the chest slightly smaller. Drape cut suits will have a slightly large chest.

Also some “athletic cut” suits have a large chest measurement – usually combined with very wide shoulders and a very small waist. (Avoid this cut like the plague unless you are built like Arnold.)

In general though, the chest is cut 4” larger than your actual chest measurement.

Waist

As mentioned the waist is usually cut larger on more expensive suits ($1000+) and slimmer on low-to-mid-range and designer suits.

Shoulder 

Designers tweak the shoulder more than anything else. Currently they are running on the narrow side.

You should determine a minimum (jacket) shoulder width for you personally.

If the shoulder measurement listed in the auction is wider it may still look fine on you – it depends on the overall cut and also the look you are going for.

Jacket length

This is the other measurement that designers love to mess with. Currently jackets are being cut on the longer side.

Generally 30” – 32” indicates a regular and 32” + indicates a long.

The one rule to keep in mind – the jacket must cover your posterior.

Sleeve length

Sleeve length is the easiest alteration to make.

Generally the sleeves will be too long as it’s easier to shorten a sleeve than it is too lengthen it.

If the listed measurement is too short then ask the seller how much fabric there is to let the sleeve down.

Older suits

Older (10-20 years old) suits almost always have a waist that is 4” smaller than the chest. In fact the chest and shoulders are usually narrower too.

Often if I’m selling an older suit (Oxxford for instance) that is tagged a size 44 I’ll sell it as a size 42.

I do this because the measurements correspond to a current size 42 Oxxford suit.

European sizes

Generally you get the US size by subtracting 10 from the European size.

For  instance a Euro 52 usually corresponds to a US 42. But there are plenty of exceptions so rely on the measurements.

The Hermes jacket pictured is tagged a Euro 54 and it measures to a slim 42.

Made to measure

A made to measure garment will  usually have tagged size that is 1-2 sizes larger than the actual measurements indicate.

I’m guessing they start with a larger pattern and then cut it down as needed but I’m not certain.

Previously altered garments

If you buy previously worn garments they may have been altered.

In this day and age most guys leave their jackets exactly as they bought them.

But never assume. Rely on the measurements.

The strange and the unexplainable

When the tagged size has no basis in reality you are usually dealing with an Armani.

I’ve seen a lot of Black Label jackets that were tagged a size 58 Euro that measured to a size 44 or even a 42.

So once again – measurements are your most reliable guide.

Alterations

I get a lot of questions about what can and cannot be altered.

Basically you can almost always alter the sleeves. And you can usually have the back taken in or out a bit to change the waist measurement.

The chest and shoulders can be altered, but you will need a very skilled tailor.

Jackets can also be shortened, but usually only by 1/2 “, any more and the pockets will look too low, unless they were placed high to begin with.

Conclusion

Hopefully this will be of some use, and I wish you all the best in your search for the perfect suit at the perfect price!

Big & Tall (Suits For The Tall Body Type).

Another informative article on dress and fashion  for the tall body type men by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

Dress & Fashion For The Tall Body Type

How’s the weather up there?

fashion for tal body types

Suit Style:

Two-button, single-breasted suits. Double-breasted suits can look great if you button the middle (waist) button. Look for suits in “Tall” size styles, they will have a longer jacket length and a long rise in the trousers.

If you opt for a three-button single-breasted suit style, don’t button the tip button.  You’ll look better with only the middle button fastened.

Jacket:
Shoulders should be squared, slightly padded and the fit at the waist should be loose or straight. Flapped pockets will add a horizontal line to the jacket. The length can be slightly longer than just covering your rear.

Patterns and Colors:

Plaids (like Glennurguhart) or patterns in medium to large size you can wear well, but avoid stripes.

You can contrast your slacks and sports jackets since you’re looking for horizontal lines. Try bold patterns in your sweaters or casual shirts.

Fabrics:

You are lucky in you can successfully wear medium to heavy weight fabrics. Even bulky fabrics like tweeds look goodon you.

Shirts and Ties:
A wide spread collar and wide knot like the Windsor or half-Windsor work well as do button down and club (rounded) collars, but avoid long point collars. With a long neck tab or pin-collars work well.

Bright colors and bold patterns for shirt and tie combination provide a flattering frame for your face.  Try horizontal stripes on ties and shirts, and shirt patterns such as Tattersall, checks, plaid, etc.

Trousers:

Make sure you have a long rise pant. It will fit and look much better. Cuffed trousers with a full break-high water pants look even worse on tall guys. You can have your tailor make your cuffs a little wider than the usual one-inch; try 1.5″.

Shoes:
Substantial shoes. No skimpy moccasin styles, look for lace-ups or loafers that give you a strong foundation.

Accessories:
Belts are good (horizontal line again) and you can contrast belt and suit or trouser colors.

Eyewear Shape:

If you have an oblong face choose slender frames and look for styles with the temples placed near the middle or low on the frames. A lower bridge in a color will help with a large nose.

Topcoats:

Well tailored double breasted or any loose fitting coat. Ragland sleeves are good too.

How To Dress For A Job Interview!

Insightful article on how to dress for a job interview by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

job

Just graduated?

Ready to move up the corporate ladder?

Changing careers?

Congratulations!

You are destined to participate in the interview process! Interviewing is a skill that you will use forever in your career, no matter which side of the desk you are on!!

The interview is, without a doubt, the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit. You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up!

You will be trying to convince the person interviewing you that with your serious, conservative clothing – you are the type of person who will fit in at the company, will not “rock the boat”, or call unnecessary attention to yourself (a team player). That’s the reason for conservative clothes and a reason to avoid fashion statements. Clothing is an expression of your respect and consideration for the situation.

Candidates who ignore the importance of “Dressing to Impress” cannot be serious about the job in the minds of most interviewers. Interviewers expect interviewees to look a certain way so disappointing them at first sight is the “kiss of death”.

You will need to look “right” to a stranger who is making an important evaluation of you within 30 seconds of meeting you. And since 90% of you is covered by clothing (hide those tattoos!) the clothing choices you make can have a significant impact, but can be used to your advantage. See my article (First Impressionism).

Most recruiters or personnel executives realize if you’re just starting your career you are on a limited clothing budget, but they will expect clean, appropriate clothing that fits with the style of the company where you are interviewing.

In this competitive age, average doesn’t get you anywhere. To be successful you have to look the part. Don’t kid yourself that having a good degree, innovative ideas, enthusiasm, motivation and a great personality doesn’t mean that an appropriate appearance is of secondary importance. If you did not have the first qualities you would not have been invited to interview with the rest of the candidates.

Tip for the Future: After you get the job, dress for the position several levels higher (dress like your boss’s boss). If you want a promotion you must look like you deserve it and can fit into the post.

Some Specifics on What To Wear

Wear a suit (it’s more serious than a sport coat). Best colors are Navy or Charcoal Gray Single Breasted suit.

Note: Black vs. Navy For men black is not usually considered appropriate for business (social, funerals – yes). Navy is the dominate power color. Recently this has been challenged by female executives wearing black since black is such a powerful color.

Button your suit when you enter the interview office. You may unbutton it when you sit down. Button it back up when you stand to leave. Always leave the bottom button unbuttoned.

White shirt with a straight point collar. Only long sleeve please. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.

There is a “rule” that in serious business dress you wear a minimum of one pattern and two solids (the elements are your suit, shirt and tie). Men look great in tuxedos which are all solids! So the recommendation for interviewing is a solid color suit and shirt and a patterned tie. Loud shirts or ties will detract from one’s character and bearing.

Ties – Best choices are solid, stripes, or small patterns and an excellent color is burgundy or another serious color(avoid pink or yellow). Even pattern ties should be limited to a maximum of three colors. Small patterns in a tie are associated with the upper middle class and that is usually the group to which your interviewer belongs. Reppties (stripes) are acceptable to pretty much everyone. Save the expensive “hip” ties for your try at glamorous creative jobs.

You can wear the same suit for subsequent interviews if you change the tie.

The tie should be long enough to reach your belt buckle, and don’t forget the all important dimple! (the indentation under the knot.)

Socks – should match your suit and not allow any skin to show when you cross your legs. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and cuffs are a mark of a sophisticated businessman.

Leather belts with quiet, small belt buckles.

SHOES — One of the most important fashion factors, they are a strong statement of personality and executives (men and women!) notice shoes. Choose black, cordovan or brown classic lace-ups, shined, and in good repair.

By looking at shoes you can tell …

Economic status — “well heeled”, expensive shoes

Detail oriented — cared for, polished shoes

Styling – trendy hip creative or serious businessmen

Color – black more serious, but brown worn with a gray suit shows sophistication, but be sure your interviewer knows that!

Grooming For The Interview

No cologne (especially on your right hand, it rubs off when you shake hands)

Check breath

Clean nails

NEVER Chew gum (also a great tip for after you get the job)

Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases a feeling of accessibility. So short hair for power, long hair for an image of friendliness.

Make sure you have a nice pen and carry it in the inside jacket pocket (not the shirt pocket).

Name tags go on the right (easier to read when you shake hands) although most people stick them on the left.

Advice from a human resource consultant! It seems a common misconception that if the position you’re interviewing is a “casual dress” situation that you don’t have to dress up for the interview!”Candidates shouldn’t be fooled into believing they can get away with wearing a pair of khakis to an interview just because they’ve heard the company employs a casual dress code,” says Julia Miller, a human resource consultant in Milwaukee! “Your interviewer will expect you to show up wearing a business suit, regardless of what she or everyone else in the office is wearing.”Miller says while a smart suit goes a long way toward making a solid first impression, job candidates often feel the need to match their appearance up with improper accessories and inappropriate items.”I see people in great suits with ratty backpacks slung over their shoulders or wearing shoes that have seen better days – much better days,” says Miller. “I don’t understand why someone would go through the trouble of wearing a suit, only to blow it with something else that’s completely out of place.”Most recruiters won’t give a second thought to a manila folder or a simple notepad, but she says some interviews may find it odd if you bring in a dozen folders or more, loaded down with clips, references and other pieces of information. “You want to present an organized neat image of yourself,” Miller says.
“You don’t want recruiters to see qualities that they wish to avoid at all costs with new employees. If you show up with papers fumbling out of a folder, whether it’s fair or not, you’ll leave an impression that you’re unorganized”

Before the Interview

REHEARSE. If you are not accustom to wearing a suit or interviewing. Drill with someone or by yourself. Dress up, enter a room, sit down, practice answering questions etc.

SHOW UP SLIGHTLY EARLY. Find the location (parking, etc.) the day before the interview. Research the company and know what’s current in that industry. Sound like an insider. If possible, stop in a restroom for one last check of your appearance (hair, tie knot, etc.)

Treat everyone nicely and with respect, especially the receptionists and secretaries. Often one bad word from them can ruin your chances.

During the Interview

Bring something to give to the interviewer: a resume, a three ring binder presentation of your accomplishments.

Listen! Actively. Ask questions (have some ready!) Beware that nodding the head “too much” is perceived as negative with regard to displaying power and authority.

Hand shake (aim for thumb) firm squeeze not death grip.

It’s “yes” and “no” not “yeah”, “un-huh” nor “unt-huh”

Don’t answer your cellphone! If you receive a cellphone call or text message during your job interview, don’tanswer it. Doing so ranks as job candidates’ most common mistake in an interview, according to a survey of hiring managers.

71% of managers surveyed named it as the top blunder, according to a report released by Career Builder. Other common mistakes: dressing inappropriately and appearing uninterested, each cited by 69% of managers, followed closely by appearing arrogant at 66%.

Rounding out the list of what not to do is speaking negatively about a current or previous employer at 63%, chewing gum at an interview 59%, not providing specific answers at 35% and not asking good questions at 32%.

When asked the most outrageous blunders they have encountered when interviewing job candidates, the hiring managers reported hugging the hiring manager at the end of the interview and eating all the candy from the candy bowl. But at the top of the list of no-no’s: Wearing a hat that said, “Take this job and shove it.”

Harris Interactive conducted the survey for Career Builder among 2,482 U.S. hiring managers between Nov. 15 and Dec. 2, 2010

Four Basics:

Never admit that you are nervous. Of course you will be, everyone is, but don’t tell the interviewer that you’re nervous. This is the one time that it won’t get you any sympathy or make you look more human – just weak! Try to stay calm and fake confidence.
A big mistake is not preparing for the interview. Do research on the company and ask great questions – nothing easily found on Google.
Never give one word answers! Every question is your opportunity to shine and show how great you will be for this job. Give them some good stories about your previous experiences and how well you did.
Ask Questions! They will ask, toward the end “Do you have any questions for us?” Ask! It’s another opportunity to show how great you are!
Body Language In The Interview

Eye contact! Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide.

Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness.

Sit with your back straight, but lean slightly forward to show how interested you are in the interviewer and the company!

Choose a chair not a sofa. Sofas are too low and difficult to sit up straight, you look sloppy, thus putting you in a weak position. If possible angle the chair at a 45 angle to the interviewer. This avoids the confrontational straight across position.

Mirror: People are most comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Try to “mirror” the interviewer’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).

Be Ready To Talk About Your:

strengths and weaknesses
accomplishments and achievements
failures and how you learned from them and made them successes
key decisions
interests, likes and dislikes
Men tend to brag too much. Talk about your family and hobbies (appear well rounded). It’s OK to admit mistakes and don’t forget to listen!
Women don’t brag enough in interviews. Go ahead tell the interviewer how great you are, but don’t bad mouth your former boss or company. You do not want to be categorized as a whiner!
interview questionsSome good questions to be ready for (or to ask if you’re the interviewer):

When were you excited about your work?

See if the person’s passions really fit the job.

What major mistake from you past do you not regret?

Can the person admit a mistake? Learn from it?

What’s your favorite movie?

Actually helps to see if the candidate can think clearly, quickly and articulate.

What’s a misconception people have about you?

Does the candidate understand their image and how to manage it.

In 5 years how will you justify having taken this job? (a newer version of where do you want to be in 5 years).

Allows the interviewee to talk about his master career plan.

Added Dimensions:

SCREENING STAGE: You may be asked to meet with one or two people in succession or in a group.

DINNER , Breakfast or Lunch: This is presently a strong practice since it allows the interviewer to ascertain your manners, how you handle social situations. Do not drink alcoholic beverages, even if the interviewers are drinking.

GOLF: Another method of interview, make certain you have substantial (name brand) golf attire.

SPOUSE: If they suggest you bring your wife, it is not a suggestion. She must show up appropriately dressed.

FINAL INTERVIEW: Often the “final” determination is made by the big, big boss. Sometimes this meeting is played down by calling the visit a “courtesy call”, but beware this is a very important showing of yourself. Wear your best and conduct yourself accordingly (often a very formal, very important few minutes).

After The Interview

Send a thank you/follow up letter to the interviewer (restate your qualifications, and if you felt anything didn’t go well this is your opportunity to restate your strengths and the things you didn’t think of/say during the interview.

In a recent post in the Forum these great tips were given by Dr. James Ryan, Forum Member (he’s graciously agreed to let us re-print them here: The purpose for the initial interview is that they’re trying to gauge how you would fit into their company. They really want to know your people skills. The best thing is to ‘know yourself.’ They could ask you anything, but here are a few things that are sure to come up:
Tell me about a time you demonstrated initiative.
Give me an example of your leadership ability.
Describe your most recent group effort and how you contributed to the team.
In answering these questions, be certain to describe a SPECIFIC example (don’t describe your leadership style in general, but rather recount a specific time you were in a leadership role). After setting the context, describe your role, contribution to, or influence on that situation. Finally, always provide a statement describing the outcome of your efforts (e.g., the grade you received, the percentage increase in sales volume due to your efforts, etc.) so they can evaluate your effectiveness. A common way to approach answering behavioral questions is to use the STAR method:

S = Situation: Describe what you were facing

T = Target: Describe what you wanted to achieve

A = Action: Describe what you did

R = Results: Describe what happened, how things turned out, what you learned, and optionally what you’d do differently if presented the same circumstances.

It’s a bit rigid, but it will make sure you cover all the bases.

The non-verbal cues you send in the interview are important too.

Be conscious of slouching back in a chair (boredom?), twiddling your thumbs (nervousness?), and crossing your arms (hostility?).

If you are asked a particularly tough question, maintain your composure and take extra time to think before replying. Be sure to maintain good eye contact, which conveys confidence and honesty.

It’s also very important to know what to ask the interviewer. You want to evaluate the company and the opportunities provided by this position in order to determine whether or not you are even interested. In addition, the questions you ask convey interest and enthusiasm; if you fail to ask anything of the interviewer, they might assume you aren’t particularly interested in the job or the organization.

One of the hardest things they’ll be sure to ask you is about your weaknesses. You have to walk a tightrope with this question.

Certainly don’t talk about any major character flaws (if you have any). You need to pick something fairly trivial, and somewhat downplay it, all the while being sincere.

I could go on and on, there are entire books devoted to this stuff. The main things to do are keep your energy up (don’t smile too much, though,) and have SPECIFIC examples in mind for the most common questions.

Thanks Dr. James Ryan!

What?

Taken from the files of real resumes (as reported in Fortune Magazine and on the internet):

“Please don’t misconstrue my 14 jobs as job hopping. I have never quit a job”

“I have lurnt Word Perfect 6.0 computor and spreasheet progroms”

“Received a plague for salesperson of the Year”

“Failed bar exam with relatively high grades”

“Am a perfectionist and rarely if if ever forget details”

What The Human Resources Dept Really Means:

“Good Communication Skills” — Management communicates, you listen, figure out what they want and do it.

“Problem Solving Skills a must” — you’re walking into a company in perpetual chaos.

“Join our fast-paced company” — we don’t have time to train you.

“Some overtime required” — some each night and some each weekend.

Keep Your Sense Of Humor!

Or you can fill out your application like this, reportedly an actual job application that a 75 year old senior citizen submitted to Wal-Mart in Arkansas.

NAME: George Martin
SEX: Not lately, but I am looking for the right woman (or at least one that will cooperate)
DESIRED POSITION: Company’s President or Vice President. But seriously, whatever’s available. If I was in a position to be picky, I wouldn’t be applying here in the first place.
DESIRED SALARY: $185,000 a year plus stock options and a Michael Ovitz style severance package. If that’s not possible, make an offer and we can haggle.
EDUCATION: Yes.
LAST POSITION HELD: Target for middle management hostility.
PREVIOUS SALARY: A lot less than I’m worth.
MOST NOTABLE ACHIEVEMENT: My incredible collection of stolen pens and post-it notes.
REASON FOR LEAVING:It sucked.
HOURS AVAILABLE TO WORK: Any
PREFERRED HOURS: 1:30-3:30 p.m. ! ; Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday.
DO YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL SKILLS?: Yes, but they’re better suited to a more intimate environment.
MAY WE CONTACT YOUR CURRENT EMPLOYER?: If I had one, would I be here?
DO YOU HAVE ANY PHYSICAL CONDITIONS THAT WOULD PROHIBIT YOU FROM LIFTING UP TO 50 lbs.?: Of what?
DO YOU HAVE A CAR?: I think the more appropriate question here would be “Do you have a car that runs?”
HAVE YOU RECEIVED ANY SPECIAL AWARDS OR RECOGNITION?: I may already be a winner of the Publishers Clearing House Sweepstakes, so they tell me.
DO YOU SMOKE?: On the job – no! On my breaks – yes!
WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE DOING IN FIVE YEARS?: Living in the Bahamas with a fabulously wealthy dumb sexy blonde supermodel who thinks I’m the greatest thing since sliced bread. Actually, I’d like to be doing that now.
NEAREST RELATIVE…. 7 miles
DO YOU CERTIFY THAT THE ABOVE IS TRUE AND COMPLETE TO THE BEST OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE?: Oh yes, absolutely.
They hired him because he was so funny!!!

AFTER YOU GET THE JOB:

And after you get that perfect job, here are some tips from Jeffrey J. Fox, author of “How To Become CEO”!

Don’texpect the Personnel Department to plan your career. There are no automatic steps on the corporate ladder. You must be responsible for making your own destiny.

Think for one hour everyday. Spend the hour planning, dreaming, scheming, calculating and reviewing your goals. Write down ideas. Do this everyday at the same scheduled time and not while you’re at work (you’ll be interrupted there).

Keep and use a special idea notebook. Write down all your ideas, plans, goals and dreams in one place.

Arrive forty-five minutes early and leave fifteen minutes late. If you are going to be first in your corporation start practicing by being first on the job. People who arrive late to work don’t like their jobs (that’s what management thinks).

Don’t stay at the office until ten o’clock every night. That’s a signal that you can’t keep up or that your personal life is poor. Leave fifteen minutes late instead. Use those fifteen mutes to organize your next day and clean your desk. You‘ll be leaving after 95% of all the employees anyway.

Best of Luck!
— Andy Gilchrist

Truth Hurts!

A very good client of mine, who has now bought over a dozen suits from me, was very skeptical when he placed his first order with me. Reason? I was 26 years old back then and looked like I was 18. He told me he wears size 36 waist while shopping off the rack and was stunned to see when I measured him and the waist was size 37.5″.

I assured him, I have been taking measurements since I was 21 but those 5 years of experience meant a lot to me, not a lot to him. To make things worst, he happened to be a lawyer and tried to prove himself right so he took the tape measure and put it around his waist. Result? 37.5″

However, I was taught customer is always right, so I had to think quick and come up with an answer. I told him, my measuring tape was made in China, so maybe the numbers show up different, and probably his waist really is 36 if he says so but we will make it 36.5″ to play it safe. He approved. I sold him 3 suits.

But, it bothered me that I lied to him to make him happy. I knew the pants will come out an inch too tight, so I made the waist 37.5″ as it’s always easier to take in the waist, then letting it out. When his suits were ready, he tried them on and the waist at 37.5″ was a perfect fit. All’s well that ends well.

But I was curious and went to the department stores to shop for pants myself that weekend (something I didn’t have to do since I started working as a custom tailor). I found out, that many clothing manufacturers mislabel the waist size on pants in order to pump up their sales. Think about it, if you tried on 2 pairs of pants and they were both the same color, quality and price..the only difference being one was labeled waist size 36″ and the other as 38″ which one would you buy?

Right! The one that makes you feel better about your gut.

Fortunately, I don’t have to use the “measuring tape is made in China” excuse these days anymore as the customers think I am old and experienced enough to know what I am doing 🙂

That’s it for today folks, I will be back with something else tomorrow.

Vijay.