Big & Tall (Suits For The Tall Body Type).

Another informative article on dress and fashion  for the tall body type men by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

Dress & Fashion For The Tall Body Type

How’s the weather up there?

fashion for tal body types

Suit Style:

Two-button, single-breasted suits. Double-breasted suits can look great if you button the middle (waist) button. Look for suits in “Tall” size styles, they will have a longer jacket length and a long rise in the trousers.

If you opt for a three-button single-breasted suit style, don’t button the tip button.  You’ll look better with only the middle button fastened.

Jacket:
Shoulders should be squared, slightly padded and the fit at the waist should be loose or straight. Flapped pockets will add a horizontal line to the jacket. The length can be slightly longer than just covering your rear.

Patterns and Colors:

Plaids (like Glennurguhart) or patterns in medium to large size you can wear well, but avoid stripes.

You can contrast your slacks and sports jackets since you’re looking for horizontal lines. Try bold patterns in your sweaters or casual shirts.

Fabrics:

You are lucky in you can successfully wear medium to heavy weight fabrics. Even bulky fabrics like tweeds look goodon you.

Shirts and Ties:
A wide spread collar and wide knot like the Windsor or half-Windsor work well as do button down and club (rounded) collars, but avoid long point collars. With a long neck tab or pin-collars work well.

Bright colors and bold patterns for shirt and tie combination provide a flattering frame for your face.  Try horizontal stripes on ties and shirts, and shirt patterns such as Tattersall, checks, plaid, etc.

Trousers:

Make sure you have a long rise pant. It will fit and look much better. Cuffed trousers with a full break-high water pants look even worse on tall guys. You can have your tailor make your cuffs a little wider than the usual one-inch; try 1.5″.

Shoes:
Substantial shoes. No skimpy moccasin styles, look for lace-ups or loafers that give you a strong foundation.

Accessories:
Belts are good (horizontal line again) and you can contrast belt and suit or trouser colors.

Eyewear Shape:

If you have an oblong face choose slender frames and look for styles with the temples placed near the middle or low on the frames. A lower bridge in a color will help with a large nose.

Topcoats:

Well tailored double breasted or any loose fitting coat. Ragland sleeves are good too.

How To Dress For A Job Interview!

Insightful article on how to dress for a job interview by Andy Gilchrist. Make sure to check out Andy’s website (www.askandyaboutclothes.com) for more insightful articles.

job

Just graduated?

Ready to move up the corporate ladder?

Changing careers?

Congratulations!

You are destined to participate in the interview process! Interviewing is a skill that you will use forever in your career, no matter which side of the desk you are on!!

The interview is, without a doubt, the time to make the very best possible impression you can make. This is a situation that calls for a serious business outfit. You, of course, want to be perceived as “serious” about the job, the company and the work you will be doing. You may be applying for a “casual dress” job, but the interview is always dress up!

You will be trying to convince the person interviewing you that with your serious, conservative clothing – you are the type of person who will fit in at the company, will not “rock the boat”, or call unnecessary attention to yourself (a team player). That’s the reason for conservative clothes and a reason to avoid fashion statements. Clothing is an expression of your respect and consideration for the situation.

Candidates who ignore the importance of “Dressing to Impress” cannot be serious about the job in the minds of most interviewers. Interviewers expect interviewees to look a certain way so disappointing them at first sight is the “kiss of death”.

You will need to look “right” to a stranger who is making an important evaluation of you within 30 seconds of meeting you. And since 90% of you is covered by clothing (hide those tattoos!) the clothing choices you make can have a significant impact, but can be used to your advantage. See my article (First Impressionism).

Most recruiters or personnel executives realize if you’re just starting your career you are on a limited clothing budget, but they will expect clean, appropriate clothing that fits with the style of the company where you are interviewing.

In this competitive age, average doesn’t get you anywhere. To be successful you have to look the part. Don’t kid yourself that having a good degree, innovative ideas, enthusiasm, motivation and a great personality doesn’t mean that an appropriate appearance is of secondary importance. If you did not have the first qualities you would not have been invited to interview with the rest of the candidates.

Tip for the Future: After you get the job, dress for the position several levels higher (dress like your boss’s boss). If you want a promotion you must look like you deserve it and can fit into the post.

Some Specifics on What To Wear

Wear a suit (it’s more serious than a sport coat). Best colors are Navy or Charcoal Gray Single Breasted suit.

Note: Black vs. Navy For men black is not usually considered appropriate for business (social, funerals – yes). Navy is the dominate power color. Recently this has been challenged by female executives wearing black since black is such a powerful color.

Button your suit when you enter the interview office. You may unbutton it when you sit down. Button it back up when you stand to leave. Always leave the bottom button unbuttoned.

White shirt with a straight point collar. Only long sleeve please. Never wear a short sleeve shirt with a tie.

There is a “rule” that in serious business dress you wear a minimum of one pattern and two solids (the elements are your suit, shirt and tie). Men look great in tuxedos which are all solids! So the recommendation for interviewing is a solid color suit and shirt and a patterned tie. Loud shirts or ties will detract from one’s character and bearing.

Ties – Best choices are solid, stripes, or small patterns and an excellent color is burgundy or another serious color(avoid pink or yellow). Even pattern ties should be limited to a maximum of three colors. Small patterns in a tie are associated with the upper middle class and that is usually the group to which your interviewer belongs. Reppties (stripes) are acceptable to pretty much everyone. Save the expensive “hip” ties for your try at glamorous creative jobs.

You can wear the same suit for subsequent interviews if you change the tie.

The tie should be long enough to reach your belt buckle, and don’t forget the all important dimple! (the indentation under the knot.)

Socks – should match your suit and not allow any skin to show when you cross your legs. Trousers should be long enough to cover your socks, and cuffs are a mark of a sophisticated businessman.

Leather belts with quiet, small belt buckles.

SHOES — One of the most important fashion factors, they are a strong statement of personality and executives (men and women!) notice shoes. Choose black, cordovan or brown classic lace-ups, shined, and in good repair.

By looking at shoes you can tell …

Economic status — “well heeled”, expensive shoes

Detail oriented — cared for, polished shoes

Styling – trendy hip creative or serious businessmen

Color – black more serious, but brown worn with a gray suit shows sophistication, but be sure your interviewer knows that!

Grooming For The Interview

No cologne (especially on your right hand, it rubs off when you shake hands)

Check breath

Clean nails

NEVER Chew gum (also a great tip for after you get the job)

Hair longer than shoulder length for women and over the ears for men diminishes perception of authority, but increases a feeling of accessibility. So short hair for power, long hair for an image of friendliness.

Make sure you have a nice pen and carry it in the inside jacket pocket (not the shirt pocket).

Name tags go on the right (easier to read when you shake hands) although most people stick them on the left.

Advice from a human resource consultant! It seems a common misconception that if the position you’re interviewing is a “casual dress” situation that you don’t have to dress up for the interview!”Candidates shouldn’t be fooled into believing they can get away with wearing a pair of khakis to an interview just because they’ve heard the company employs a casual dress code,” says Julia Miller, a human resource consultant in Milwaukee! “Your interviewer will expect you to show up wearing a business suit, regardless of what she or everyone else in the office is wearing.”Miller says while a smart suit goes a long way toward making a solid first impression, job candidates often feel the need to match their appearance up with improper accessories and inappropriate items.”I see people in great suits with ratty backpacks slung over their shoulders or wearing shoes that have seen better days – much better days,” says Miller. “I don’t understand why someone would go through the trouble of wearing a suit, only to blow it with something else that’s completely out of place.”Most recruiters won’t give a second thought to a manila folder or a simple notepad, but she says some interviews may find it odd if you bring in a dozen folders or more, loaded down with clips, references and other pieces of information. “You want to present an organized neat image of yourself,” Miller says.
“You don’t want recruiters to see qualities that they wish to avoid at all costs with new employees. If you show up with papers fumbling out of a folder, whether it’s fair or not, you’ll leave an impression that you’re unorganized”

Before the Interview

REHEARSE. If you are not accustom to wearing a suit or interviewing. Drill with someone or by yourself. Dress up, enter a room, sit down, practice answering questions etc.

SHOW UP SLIGHTLY EARLY. Find the location (parking, etc.) the day before the interview. Research the company and know what’s current in that industry. Sound like an insider. If possible, stop in a restroom for one last check of your appearance (hair, tie knot, etc.)

Treat everyone nicely and with respect, especially the receptionists and secretaries. Often one bad word from them can ruin your chances.

During the Interview

Bring something to give to the interviewer: a resume, a three ring binder presentation of your accomplishments.

Listen! Actively. Ask questions (have some ready!) Beware that nodding the head “too much” is perceived as negative with regard to displaying power and authority.

Hand shake (aim for thumb) firm squeeze not death grip.

It’s “yes” and “no” not “yeah”, “un-huh” nor “unt-huh”

Don’t answer your cellphone! If you receive a cellphone call or text message during your job interview, don’tanswer it. Doing so ranks as job candidates’ most common mistake in an interview, according to a survey of hiring managers.

71% of managers surveyed named it as the top blunder, according to a report released by Career Builder. Other common mistakes: dressing inappropriately and appearing uninterested, each cited by 69% of managers, followed closely by appearing arrogant at 66%.

Rounding out the list of what not to do is speaking negatively about a current or previous employer at 63%, chewing gum at an interview 59%, not providing specific answers at 35% and not asking good questions at 32%.

When asked the most outrageous blunders they have encountered when interviewing job candidates, the hiring managers reported hugging the hiring manager at the end of the interview and eating all the candy from the candy bowl. But at the top of the list of no-no’s: Wearing a hat that said, “Take this job and shove it.”

Harris Interactive conducted the survey for Career Builder among 2,482 U.S. hiring managers between Nov. 15 and Dec. 2, 2010

Four Basics:

Never admit that you are nervous. Of course you will be, everyone is, but don’t tell the interviewer that you’re nervous. This is the one time that it won’t get you any sympathy or make you look more human – just weak! Try to stay calm and fake confidence.
A big mistake is not preparing for the interview. Do research on the company and ask great questions – nothing easily found on Google.
Never give one word answers! Every question is your opportunity to shine and show how great you will be for this job. Give them some good stories about your previous experiences and how well you did.
Ask Questions! They will ask, toward the end “Do you have any questions for us?” Ask! It’s another opportunity to show how great you are!
Body Language In The Interview

Eye contact! Don’t stare, but look the other person (persons) in the eye 40 to 60% of the time, otherwise you’ll be perceived as having something to hide.

Smile, but “over smiling” gives the impression of weakness.

Sit with your back straight, but lean slightly forward to show how interested you are in the interviewer and the company!

Choose a chair not a sofa. Sofas are too low and difficult to sit up straight, you look sloppy, thus putting you in a weak position. If possible angle the chair at a 45 angle to the interviewer. This avoids the confrontational straight across position.

Mirror: People are most comfortable with people who are “like” themselves (in dress, mannerisms, thoughts, etc.). Try to “mirror” the interviewer’s body position and mannerisms such as speech speed, (to a certain degree).

Be Ready To Talk About Your:

strengths and weaknesses
accomplishments and achievements
failures and how you learned from them and made them successes
key decisions
interests, likes and dislikes
Men tend to brag too much. Talk about your family and hobbies (appear well rounded). It’s OK to admit mistakes and don’t forget to listen!
Women don’t brag enough in interviews. Go ahead tell the interviewer how great you are, but don’t bad mouth your former boss or company. You do not want to be categorized as a whiner!
interview questionsSome good questions to be ready for (or to ask if you’re the interviewer):

When were you excited about your work?

See if the person’s passions really fit the job.

What major mistake from you past do you not regret?

Can the person admit a mistake? Learn from it?

What’s your favorite movie?

Actually helps to see if the candidate can think clearly, quickly and articulate.

What’s a misconception people have about you?

Does the candidate understand their image and how to manage it.

In 5 years how will you justify having taken this job? (a newer version of where do you want to be in 5 years).

Allows the interviewee to talk about his master career plan.

Added Dimensions:

SCREENING STAGE: You may be asked to meet with one or two people in succession or in a group.

DINNER , Breakfast or Lunch: This is presently a strong practice since it allows the interviewer to ascertain your manners, how you handle social situations. Do not drink alcoholic beverages, even if the interviewers are drinking.

GOLF: Another method of interview, make certain you have substantial (name brand) golf attire.

SPOUSE: If they suggest you bring your wife, it is not a suggestion. She must show up appropriately dressed.

FINAL INTERVIEW: Often the “final” determination is made by the big, big boss. Sometimes this meeting is played down by calling the visit a “courtesy call”, but beware this is a very important showing of yourself. Wear your best and conduct yourself accordingly (often a very formal, very important few minutes).

After The Interview

Send a thank you/follow up letter to the interviewer (restate your qualifications, and if you felt anything didn’t go well this is your opportunity to restate your strengths and the things you didn’t think of/say during the interview.

In a recent post in the Forum these great tips were given by Dr. James Ryan, Forum Member (he’s graciously agreed to let us re-print them here: The purpose for the initial interview is that they’re trying to gauge how you would fit into their company. They really want to know your people skills. The best thing is to ‘know yourself.’ They could ask you anything, but here are a few things that are sure to come up:
Tell me about a time you demonstrated initiative.
Give me an example of your leadership ability.
Describe your most recent group effort and how you contributed to the team.
In answering these questions, be certain to describe a SPECIFIC example (don’t describe your leadership style in general, but rather recount a specific time you were in a leadership role). After setting the context, describe your role, contribution to, or influence on that situation. Finally, always provide a statement describing the outcome of your efforts (e.g., the grade you received, the percentage increase in sales volume due to your efforts, etc.) so they can evaluate your effectiveness. A common way to approach answering behavioral questions is to use the STAR method:

S = Situation: Describe what you were facing

T = Target: Describe what you wanted to achieve

A = Action: Describe what you did

R = Results: Describe what happened, how things turned out, what you learned, and optionally what you’d do differently if presented the same circumstances.

It’s a bit rigid, but it will make sure you cover all the bases.

The non-verbal cues you send in the interview are important too.

Be conscious of slouching back in a chair (boredom?), twiddling your thumbs (nervousness?), and crossing your arms (hostility?).

If you are asked a particularly tough question, maintain your composure and take extra time to think before replying. Be sure to maintain good eye contact, which conveys confidence and honesty.

It’s also very important to know what to ask the interviewer. You want to evaluate the company and the opportunities provided by this position in order to determine whether or not you are even interested. In addition, the questions you ask convey interest and enthusiasm; if you fail to ask anything of the interviewer, they might assume you aren’t particularly interested in the job or the organization.

One of the hardest things they’ll be sure to ask you is about your weaknesses. You have to walk a tightrope with this question.

Certainly don’t talk about any major character flaws (if you have any). You need to pick something fairly trivial, and somewhat downplay it, all the while being sincere.

I could go on and on, there are entire books devoted to this stuff. The main things to do are keep your energy up (don’t smile too much, though,) and have SPECIFIC examples in mind for the most common questions.

Thanks Dr. James Ryan!

What?

Taken from the files of real resumes (as reported in Fortune Magazine and on the internet):

“Please don’t misconstrue my 14 jobs as job hopping. I have never quit a job”

“I have lurnt Word Perfect 6.0 computor and spreasheet progroms”

“Received a plague for salesperson of the Year”

“Failed bar exam with relatively high grades”

“Am a perfectionist and rarely if if ever forget details”

What The Human Resources Dept Really Means:

“Good Communication Skills” — Management communicates, you listen, figure out what they want and do it.

“Problem Solving Skills a must” — you’re walking into a company in perpetual chaos.

“Join our fast-paced company” — we don’t have time to train you.

“Some overtime required” — some each night and some each weekend.

Keep Your Sense Of Humor!

Or you can fill out your application like this, reportedly an actual job application that a 75 year old senior citizen submitted to Wal-Mart in Arkansas.

NAME: George Martin
SEX: Not lately, but I am looking for the right woman (or at least one that will cooperate)
DESIRED POSITION: Company’s President or Vice President. But seriously, whatever’s available. If I was in a position to be picky, I wouldn’t be applying here in the first place.
DESIRED SALARY: $185,000 a year plus stock options and a Michael Ovitz style severance package. If that’s not possible, make an offer and we can haggle.
EDUCATION: Yes.
LAST POSITION HELD: Target for middle management hostility.
PREVIOUS SALARY: A lot less than I’m worth.
MOST NOTABLE ACHIEVEMENT: My incredible collection of stolen pens and post-it notes.
REASON FOR LEAVING:It sucked.
HOURS AVAILABLE TO WORK: Any
PREFERRED HOURS: 1:30-3:30 p.m. ! ; Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday.
DO YOU HAVE ANY SPECIAL SKILLS?: Yes, but they’re better suited to a more intimate environment.
MAY WE CONTACT YOUR CURRENT EMPLOYER?: If I had one, would I be here?
DO YOU HAVE ANY PHYSICAL CONDITIONS THAT WOULD PROHIBIT YOU FROM LIFTING UP TO 50 lbs.?: Of what?
DO YOU HAVE A CAR?: I think the more appropriate question here would be “Do you have a car that runs?”
HAVE YOU RECEIVED ANY SPECIAL AWARDS OR RECOGNITION?: I may already be a winner of the Publishers Clearing House Sweepstakes, so they tell me.
DO YOU SMOKE?: On the job – no! On my breaks – yes!
WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO BE DOING IN FIVE YEARS?: Living in the Bahamas with a fabulously wealthy dumb sexy blonde supermodel who thinks I’m the greatest thing since sliced bread. Actually, I’d like to be doing that now.
NEAREST RELATIVE…. 7 miles
DO YOU CERTIFY THAT THE ABOVE IS TRUE AND COMPLETE TO THE BEST OF YOUR KNOWLEDGE?: Oh yes, absolutely.
They hired him because he was so funny!!!

AFTER YOU GET THE JOB:

And after you get that perfect job, here are some tips from Jeffrey J. Fox, author of “How To Become CEO”!

Don’texpect the Personnel Department to plan your career. There are no automatic steps on the corporate ladder. You must be responsible for making your own destiny.

Think for one hour everyday. Spend the hour planning, dreaming, scheming, calculating and reviewing your goals. Write down ideas. Do this everyday at the same scheduled time and not while you’re at work (you’ll be interrupted there).

Keep and use a special idea notebook. Write down all your ideas, plans, goals and dreams in one place.

Arrive forty-five minutes early and leave fifteen minutes late. If you are going to be first in your corporation start practicing by being first on the job. People who arrive late to work don’t like their jobs (that’s what management thinks).

Don’t stay at the office until ten o’clock every night. That’s a signal that you can’t keep up or that your personal life is poor. Leave fifteen minutes late instead. Use those fifteen mutes to organize your next day and clean your desk. You‘ll be leaving after 95% of all the employees anyway.

Best of Luck!
— Andy Gilchrist

Truth Hurts!

A very good client of mine, who has now bought over a dozen suits from me, was very skeptical when he placed his first order with me. Reason? I was 26 years old back then and looked like I was 18. He told me he wears size 36 waist while shopping off the rack and was stunned to see when I measured him and the waist was size 37.5″.

I assured him, I have been taking measurements since I was 21 but those 5 years of experience meant a lot to me, not a lot to him. To make things worst, he happened to be a lawyer and tried to prove himself right so he took the tape measure and put it around his waist. Result? 37.5″

However, I was taught customer is always right, so I had to think quick and come up with an answer. I told him, my measuring tape was made in China, so maybe the numbers show up different, and probably his waist really is 36 if he says so but we will make it 36.5″ to play it safe. He approved. I sold him 3 suits.

But, it bothered me that I lied to him to make him happy. I knew the pants will come out an inch too tight, so I made the waist 37.5″ as it’s always easier to take in the waist, then letting it out. When his suits were ready, he tried them on and the waist at 37.5″ was a perfect fit. All’s well that ends well.

But I was curious and went to the department stores to shop for pants myself that weekend (something I didn’t have to do since I started working as a custom tailor). I found out, that many clothing manufacturers mislabel the waist size on pants in order to pump up their sales. Think about it, if you tried on 2 pairs of pants and they were both the same color, quality and price..the only difference being one was labeled waist size 36″ and the other as 38″ which one would you buy?

Right! The one that makes you feel better about your gut.

Fortunately, I don’t have to use the “measuring tape is made in China” excuse these days anymore as the customers think I am old and experienced enough to know what I am doing 🙂

That’s it for today folks, I will be back with something else tomorrow.

Vijay.

50 Shades of Gray

A lot of guys wonder whether Gray suits will look good on them and if so, which shade of Grey should they go for? Here are a few tips:

  • Charcoal Gray suit – is a good color suit to wear if you’re showing up for a job interview as it’s considered a serious color. It will make the interviewer think that If you’re serious about the suit you wear, you must be serious about the job as well.
  • Medium Gray Suit – is a bit more relaxed then the Charcoal and a good option for a business suit. It also picks up a lot of pastel colored shirts (Lilac, Pink, Sky Blue) and looks great throughout the year. (This is the suit you must consider wearing, after you get the job).
  • Light Gray Suit – this is considered a Summer color (in New York, that is). However, if you’re from Texas or Florida or any other such sunny place – this is a perfect color suit for you as it will reflect heat (darker colors attract heat / lighter colors don’t).

That’s all for today folks20150302_192307! I will be back tomorrow with more 🙂

Vijay.

All you have to know about Tuxedo!

A custom tailored tux can be a scene stealer … at Custom Men we specialize in just that!
It’s a New Year and you’ll probably get new invitations to all kinds of formal events. May be you would like to show up at these events in your very own custom made tuxedo!
 
I hope the following article helps  you and gives you tips about this very special garment:

The History of the Tuxedo

It’s not often we can date precisely the start of a whole new style of clothing. However, the tuxedo is unique. We can pinpoint exactly when and where it started, as well as by whom.

In upstate New York lies Tuxedo Park, a beautiful retreat for the rich, developed in the 1880s. A supporter of the Tuxedo Park Project, James Brown Potter, went to England on vacation in the summer of 1886. Potter and his wife, Cora, met the Prince of Wales at a court ball in London. The Prince invited them both to visit him at Sandringham, his 11,000-acre estate in Norfolk.

At Sandringham, James Brown Potter realized he had absolutely no idea how to dress for their formal dinners. Potter summoned up the nerve to ask the Prince of Wales for his advice. The Prince immediately put Potter at ease and sent him to his own Saville Row tailor, Henry Poole & Co. to be fitted for a type of short black jacket which the Prince had lately taken to wearing. Potter’s new jacket was something like a short black blazer…quite different from the formal “tails” worn at elegant American occasions.
Potter made it through his Sandringham visit in style, and when he returned to Tuxedo Park, this new style of dinner jacket caught on quickly. Soon all the fashionable young gentlemen of Tuxedo Park were running off to their tailors for a copy of Potter’s smart British jacket. This new style eventually became known in New York City as “the Tuxedo.”
The immense popularity of the tuxedo, however, is due largely to another character, the colorful prankster of Tuxedo Park, Griswold Lorillard. At the Autumn Ball in Tuxedo Park on October 19, 1886, Griswold decided to parody the new shorter English dinner jacket that was all the rage. He and his friends dressed up for the Ball in striking red vests and the standard black dinner jacket with tails…and then cut off the tails. Their appearance in the butchered tails created a tremendous commotion at the Ball, and enormous publicity in New York City. The story of Griswold Lorillard’s wild crew was “tailor-made” for Manhattan’s gossipy society press. And the story of the tuxedo spread through East Coast society and across the country like wildfire. A new formal fashion was born!

When To Wear A Tuxedo

If the invitation to a wedding or the theater tickets say that it’s “optional” to wear a tuxedo, then you don’t have an option — wear a tux.

Black Tie : dinner cloths  Tuxedo
Black Tie optional : wear Tuxedo

Which Tux Style Should You Wear?

The single-breasted jacket is the all purpose and classic style that will fit all body types and sizes.Classic - Credit: NeimanMarcus.com

The double-breasted jacket
 always looks better on taller men because of its boxy shape and cut. If you are under six-feet tall, stay with a single-breasted jacket.

The shawl-collar jacket is the style that Sean Connery made famous as Bond; It had disappeared for a while but has made quite a comeback recently.

The white dinner jacket is the only thing that will do if you have the luxury of attending a black-tie affair in a tropical climate.

Bending The Rules

Wearing only the jacket is probably the single best way to dress up a pair of jeans. The mere act screams rebel, so if you’re not confident in yourself when the moment arrives to step outside, go back in and try something else.

Wearing the jacket and trousers with a matching black shirt for a modern look is worth trying if you’ll be attending any event other than a wedding. The shirt, however, must be exceptionally well-made and look as good on its own as it does under the jacket.

The Dos And Don’ts Of The Tuxedo

The biggest mistake men make when wearing a tuxedo is placing the cummerbund around their waist with the pleats facing down. Over a hundred years ago, the pleats were designed to face up and were used to hold theater tickets. This was at a time when trousers did not have pockets and all men carried their money in their jackets. So, pay homage to your ancestors and wear the pleats up. You can still hold your ticket stubs in the pleats.

Sharp-Dressed Man

Men have a terrible tendency in life to ridicule the fashions that once made men — men with jobs and responsibilities that allowed us to attend black-tie parties where high-octane cocktails were served cold. Along the way, we sometimes still want to go to the party, but we don’t think we should dress up. If you don’t want to wear the appropriate attire, then you might as well stay home. Otherwise, get thee to yonder tux shop and enjoy the fun. The drinks are cold and the ladies are wearing actual dresses. Your efforts will be rewarded.
Cuff links - Credit: NeimanMarcus.com
Shoes: I have two words for you: Black leather. Skip the patent-leather shoes that come with the tux at the rental shop and just wear your own black dress shoes, but make sure they are a simple capped toe and polished to a high shine. You’ll be happier during the event and the next day.

Cuff links and shirt studs: Stay with cuff links in silver or stainless steel that don’t attract too much attention.

Ways To Wear A Tuxedo

Tie options: The first thing you’ll encounter when you’re learning how to wear a tuxedo is that you have three tie options to decide upon: The first is the pre-tied bow tie. The second is the actual bow tie, which takes a steady hand and a bit of practice. If you’re in a rush, don’t even think about this one. Third, a black tie adds a modern touch to any tux and is best for an evening with a younger crowd.

How to Tie a Perfect Bow Tie

Tying a perfect bow tie doesn’t have to be complicated and difficult. With these instructions and a little practice, you can graduate to a new level of elegance with your own hand-tied bow tie.

How to Tie a Bow Tie: Step 1

Step 1

Start with the tie around your neck, with one end about one and a half inches longer than the other. Cross the long end over the short end and pull it through the center. Keep this snug against your neck.

How to Tie a Bow Tie: Step 2

Step 2

Form a single loop with the short end, centering it where the knot will be. Make sure the end of the loop is the widest part, to ensure your bow will have the proper shape.

How to Tie a Bow Tie: Step 3

Step 3

Bring the long end over the looped short end. Now you can begin to see how the bow will take shape.

How to Tie a Bow Tie: Step 4

Step 4

Form a loop with the long end, again making sure the end of the loop is the widest part. Push this loop through the knot behind the previous (front) loop.

How to Tie a Bow Tie: Step 5

Step 5

Tighten the knot by pulling on the loops and adjust the ends carefully. Remember, practice makes perfect!

 
Our mission is to make it as easy as possible for busy people to enjoy quality hand- finished bespoke tailoring at great price.
 
The process of ordering your Tuxedo:
 
1. Contact us to arrange a convenient appointment.
2. At the initial 30 minute meeting you will select fabric, trim and styling. Your tailor will take meticulous measurements.  At this point 50% deposit is required.
3. We will be in touch in 3 to 4 weeks to arrange a fitting appointment.
4. Your tailor will undertake any alterations swiftly until you are completely satisfied with fit.
   
We have 100% commitment to your satisfaction!!!!
We also offer Quick Alterations, Reweaving, Monogramming.
For more info, please visit us at: http://www.CustomMen.com or
Custom Men, Midtown West/Hell’s Kitchen:
140 West 57 ST, #4C
New York, NY 10019
Tel: (212) 767 0545
                    or
Custom Men, Downtown/Financial District:
14 Maiden Lane,
New York, NY 10038
Tel: (646) 559 4070.
 
For reservation, please email us: Info@CustomMen.com

Dress shirts fit?

Muscular or larger-size guys: How well do your dress shirts fit?

Some men have a lot of trouble finding a really well-fitting shirt. For instance: if you’ve got a wide neck, you obviously have to buy a larger shirt that fits your neck. But the problem with this is that the larger size may cause your shirt to look baggy on the rest of you.How do you get a shirt that fits both your neck and the rest of your chest and sides? The answer, of course, is to get your custom shirts. We have more than 15,000 luxury fabrics.

shirts